(Re)Discovering Chile - Curicó & Maule Valleys
Posted February 24 2009                               Sunset at the Mingre ranch winery of J.Bouchon - Maule
By Daenna Van Mulligen
 

Curicó Valley begins just under Cachapoal and runs south through central Chile with an arm of land which reaches toward the ocean. It is the third largest wine growing valley in Chile and is located just under 200 kilometers from Santiago. Curicó also has more Sauvignon Blanc vineyards than any other region in the country, but that number is still far less than its quantity of Cabernet Sauvignon vines.
 

Valdivieso

Valdivieso was founded in 1879 by Champagne lover, Alberto Valdivieso as a sparkling wine house. And therefore, Valdivieso holds bragging rights to being South America's first sparkling wine house. It was purchased again in the late 1940s by the Mitjans Group who are known not only as a bubbly producer but one of still wines, spirits and liqueurs as well.
I met with former Kiwi and Valdivieso winemaker – Brett Jackson - at their new, hillside hut, a covered picnic and barbecue spot overlooking a 150 hectare, horseshoe shaped valley in Curico. In this warm, protected valley Cabernet, Syrah, Malbec, Carmenere and Viognier are planted. Here, they are also planting some Marsanne, Rousanne and Grenache. You certainly can’t say that Valdivieso has a small or limited varietal portfolio – they seem to cover most grape bases and fortunately the wines are consistently tasty. The Valdivieso style is without doubt fruit-forward, easy drinking and lush.
right winemaker Brett Jackson

The portfolio starts with the “Classic” label – easy drinking, entry level wines made in Curico, Central Valley and Maipo. The ‘Reserva” tier is a green label with higher quality wines like Pinot Noir, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca, Maipo and Curico. Next is the "Reserva Single Vineyard" range with wild yeast ferment Charonnay, a Pinot Gris and reds like Cabernet Franc and Malbec. On the top of Valdivieso's tier-pyramid is the Caballo Loco "crazy horse"– a non-vintage wine (small amounts are blended in from previous vintages) which is now edition 10 (meaning this is the tenth time it has been made) and Eclat  a spectacular blend of old vines Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah.

Valdivieso Brut Blanc de Blanc, NV is a great, easy drinking bubbly with toasty, leesy aromas, loads of fresh apples and nutty hints – zippy, mousse-y, good fruit expression and slightly off-dry.
 
Classic Range
Valdivieso Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 is what you would expect from an entry level white but with even more sweet fruit. Ripe orchard fruits – especially peaches, passion fruit and zippy tropical citrus. It’s a bit off-dry with a zesty finish and is extremely easy drinking.

Reserva Range
Valdivieso Viognier Reserva, 2008 has superb, appealing aromas – ginger and ripe stone fruits, exotic spice and honeysuckle. Its balanced with bright fruit and acidity, its clean and citric with spiced hints and more peachy flavours on the finish – lovely linger.
 
Valdivieso Pinot Noir, 2007 has sweet strawberry and red cherry
notes with cedar and spices. The palate is fresh with red fruits
and spice with undertones of chocolate and vanilla. Very tasty.
 
Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, 2006 has luscious blueberry jam, cassis liqueur and lifted minty aromas. Similar flavours appear on the palate, its juicy and spiced with cedar box, tobacco, lovely acidity and smooth tannins. Delicious.
about $15 in BC

Valdivieso Cabernet Franc Reserva, 2006 is from a single vineyard. It has gorgeous balance between juicy fruit and typical lifted Cabernet aromas. Red fruits and cocoa, jammy berries and sweet spices and vanilla. It has great acidity, a slightly dusty texture and fine, drying tannins on the finish. Yum.
 
Valdivieso Malbec Reserva, 2007 is from a single vineyard
like the Cabernet Franc and it shows gorgeous, sweet ripe fruit and floral aromas - blueberries and spiced chocolate with sun-warmed raspberries. Flavours are pure – bright and focused – the wine has surprising elegance and the finish hangs on with ripe tannins, lingering spice and impressive power.
 
Valdivieso Syrah Reserva, 2007 has a noticeable, spiced nose with blueberry aromas, spices, earthy and savoury notes with loads of pepper. It’s a fine-boned wine with smooth with fine tannins and sweet spices that linger. Very nice.

Valdivieso Caballo Loco No. 10 has typical lifted Cabernet aromas- cassis, fresh mint and fine spices. The palate is smooth, shows sweet, ripe berry fruit - raspberry, blueberry, cassis- chocolate and tobacco. It is fresh with lovely structure
and smooth tannins. Delicious.
About $50
Read the Caballo Loco No 9. review here

Valdivieso Eclat, 2006  is brimming with sweet red berries and blueberry notes, warm spices and vanilla with a bit of chocolate on the nose. Bright, fresh and supple on the palate with very good structure and fruit and excellent spice flavours that linger impressively...

For more information on Valdivieso click here

Miguel Torres

Torres is a well recognized in Spain, but when Miguel Torres began a search for new vineyards in Argentina, California and Chile in 1973 he eventually chose Chile. In 1979 the Torres company became a presence in Chile when Torres purchased 100 hectares near the Andes then a small cellar near Curicó. Torres considers Chile a viticultural paradise. Original Vitus Vinifera vines, phylloxera free soil, lack of typical vine disease and mildew and near perfect climate with warm days and cool nights proves to him, that as a whole the Central Valley of Chile - specifically provides exceptions grape growing conditions. Torres has concentrated not only upon spreading his vineyards north to south but east to west across Chile - from sea to mountainside. Between all these site Torres encompasses around 650 hectares. Today, Miguel's daughter - Maria, is the winemaker and resides in Chile.

Miguel Torres Santa Dinga Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, 2008 is a gorgeous pomegranate colour that says "drink me". In fact we bought a bottle to drink later....Aromas of summer berries, red cherry and hints of tobacco. The palate is well-balanced, appropriate dry/sweetness, tart acidity and berry fruit with lingering spice. Delicious!
Available in Canada in some regions about $15

Miguel Torres Santa Dinga Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 features aromas of smoked spices and red berries, menthol,
leather and chocolate. The palate is fresh cassis, dark mixed
berries, spice and mint. The tannins are ripe but quite powerful.

Miguel Torres "Cordillera", 2005 blends 63% Cariñena, 22% Shiraz and Merlot and will be released in March. Its a wine with juicy aromas - lifted fruit with a rustic lilt, spices and vanilla. The palate is silky with chocolate, spice and cardamom, rich dark earth and a lush finish - very nice complexity.
About $30+ in Canada

Miguel Torres "Manso de Velasco", 2006 is their 100% Cabernet Sauvignon icon wine with concentrated masculine aromas, meaty earthy notes with blackcurrents and cassis, spice, mint and blueberry undertones. The Palate is plush with dense flavours - berries, chocolate and coffee and ripe but firm tannins on the finish. Made from viejas viñas about 100 year old Cabernet vines.


For more information on Miguel Torres Chile click here





Maule Valley
The Maule Valley is a sizeable DO (Denomination of Origin), the largest by far encompassing 31,000 hectares of vines. This is an old region; some vineyards are up to 200 years old. But the region  fell out of favour, perhaps for vineyards closer to Santiago. But there does seem to be some revitalization here. Grafting noble varieties onto gnarled Pais vines (Pais is a native red grape variety) has been attempted, the addition of modern irrigation and replanting bush or overhead (pergola) trellised vines with newer noble varieties and training systems. But despite the changes in the Maule, Pais still runs a close second to Cabernet in total planted vineyard hectares. And Pais is not an easy grape to love. It’s a vigorous, high yield, thin-skinned grape that manages well without irrigation but is recognized more as a jug wine variety. Even the premium Pais I tasted while in Chile was difficult to like – it was quite harsh, chewy in fact and lacked true finesse or elegance.


The ranch of J.Bouchon at Santa Maria de Mingre in Maule

J. Bouchon
A visit to the ranch house and winery of J.Bouchon in Mingre includes outdoor cooking and dining alfresco after a stunning ride through the vineyards and bush areas aroound this large Maule property. By the time you slide off your polo pony - a few Pisco Sours and the appetite building fresh air - a cookout sounds marvelous...
cooking quinoa risotto on an open fire at J. Bouchon
 
Emile Bouchon arrived in Maule Valley, from Bordeaux, in 1882. Bouchon initially founded what is now known as Casa Silva (see Rapel Valley) and thus began the history of the Bouchon family in Chile. The current J. Bouchon produces wines from their vineyards in  Santa Rosa, Las Mercedes and Santa Maria de Mingre in Maule. Even though the wines under the label J.Bouchon were not developed until 1995, (led by current owner Julio Bouchon Sr., a Agronomist and Enologist) the family pride is palpable. I like (and appreciate) the simplicity to the J.Bouchon wines - the labels are clean, there are only two tiers J.Bouchon and J.Bouchon Reserva Especial, as well as a superb, age-worthy icon wine - Mingre. The wines have a decidedly Chilean-Bordeaux style to them - elegant in the Reserva series and easy drinking value wines in the entry level J.Bouchon tier.
Julio Bouchon Lyon (son of Julio Sr.) a part -ime polo player living in Santiago, is fully involved in J.Bouchon. And along with Carlos Lamoliatte the export manager and winemaker Laura Leiva, Julio us at the ranch showing us not only their delicious wines but Chilean hospitality at its best.                                                                                                         cowboys drink white wine
                                                                                                   Julio Bouchon Lyon and Bruce Stephen

J Bouchon Sauvignon Blanc , MauleValley, 2008 is a refreshingly crisp and fruity Sauvignon Blanc with armomas of tropical citrus, peaches and exotic floral notes. The palate is superbly clean its crisp and mouthwatering acidity. Great value
Available in BC private stores $13.+
 
J. Bouchon Chardonnay, Maule Valley, 2008 is shows, mineral, citrus and orchard fruit aromas. Its clean and zesty on the palate with crisp flavours. Fresh and easy drinking value.

J. Bouchon Cabernet Sauvignon Rose Reserve, Maule Valley, 2008  is a gorgeous pomegranate colour with bright red berry and cherry aromas with zesty, tart citrus notes. Dry and crisp on the palate – the flavours echo the aromas it had good structure
and makes an excellent food wine or patio sipper.

J. Bouchon Merlot Reserva, Maule Valley, 2007 has sweet plumy aromas with undertones of dried fruits, dark earth and mint. Smooth on the entry, medium-bodied with similar dried fruits, plums and mixed berry flavours. The finish s dry, the tannins not pronounced and flavours of chocolate and mint linger.
 
J. Bouchon Carmenere~Syrah Reserva Maule Valley, 2007 presents vibrant aromas – spices, dark earth, pepper and juicy berry fruits. The palate has a nice freshness with fruit, spices, and cocoa lingering on the finish. A nice blend, good structure and acidity and a good value as well. Great Value
BC private wine stores $13.+

J. Bouchone Reserva Especial Malbec, Maule Valley, 2006 presents typical Malbec aromas – earthy, dark berries and spices, bittersweet chocolate and hints of floral. The palate shows good intensity with earthy, smoky and savoury flavours intermingled with the fruit. Good acidity and firm ripe tannins on the finish.
BC private wine stores 2005 is available $20+
 
J. Bouchon Cabernet Sauvignon Especial Reserva, Maule Valley, 2006 pops with bright red fruit aromas and typical Cabernet aromas, some minty notes, chalky minerality and tobacco with darker, earth and chocolate undertones.  
The palate presents great succulent flavours,
more berry fruit and spices,
chocolate and pepper. The finish lingers impressively.
BC private stores 2005 is available $20.+
 
J.Bouchon Mingre, Maule Valley, 2005 is a Cabernet based blend with 17%Malbec, 17% Syrah and 4% Carmenere, it has bright red berry aromas, savoury – spicy, earthy and tobacco flavours supporting. The palate is elegant, smooth with great fruit concentration - plums and cherries - Its focused with harnessed power has firm tannins and a very long finish.
I also tasted the fine, age proven1999 Mingre which showed red fruit, leather, a fine, smooth palate with tobacco and spice lingering.

for more information on J Bouchon click here

Botalcura


Botalcura was a winery I had had no previous knowledge of prior to arriving at their estate in Maule Valley. Well off the beaten track we traveled to the tiny town of Botalcura and met up with winemaker (and one of three owners) Philippe DeBrus who was previously at Valdivieso. DeBrus, a French winemaker who has been living in Chile for more than a fifteen years, left Valdivieso in 2001 and made his first Botalcura vintage in 2002. The new winery has a production capacity for 60,000 cases. and most of his grapes are sourced from all over Chile's best regions. The wines fall into two tiers - El Delirio Reserve and La Porfia Grand Reserve as well as their icon wine Cayo. DeBrus is not a man afraid of blends or experimenting with non-traditional (Chilean) varietals. He's enthusiastic and passionate about winemaking and I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised by many of his blends and a 2005 Nebbiolo he had made.                                               winemaker and owner Philippe DeBrus

El Delirio Reserva Chardonnay~Viognier, Central Valley, 2007 shows obvious stone fruit, melon and floral aromas supported by bold spices. Creamy on the palate, soft, fruity, buttery and a hint of spice. I would have liked a bit more acidity but in all a tasty wine.

Botalcura La Porfia, Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, 2008 is a very vibrant wine, grass and elderflower, gooseberry and minerals. Both tropical and citric fruit appear on the palate and it has a very New Zealand-style cat pee aroma to it. Mouth-wateringly crisp.

Botalcura La Porfia Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, 2005 has 50% malolactic fermentation and has been left on Viognier skins to enhance its creamy character and adding some Viognier elements to the wine. Butterscotch and tropical fruits, vanilla
spice and buttercream frosting aromas. Sweet tropical fruit and melon on the palate, a creamy texture and hints of brioche flavours.

Botalcura El Delirio Carmenere~Merlot, Central Valley, 2006 has super-sweet blackberry and eucalypt aromas with savoury undertones. It is earthy and spiced on the palate, with dark chocolate, purple berries and vanilla flavours - very tasty.

Botalcura La Porfia Grand Reserva Malbec, Maipo Valley, 2006 is chocolate cherries, meaty, earthy and savoury undertones-
powerful, intense almost boozy. The palate is round and luscious
with black fruits - big and bold with ripe tannins.

Botalcura La Porfia Cabernet Franc, Curicó Valley, 2006 - well Philippe certainly made his mark at Valdivieso with this wine and he has not lost his touch. Decadent blackberry/bluseberry aromas, spiced chocolate and violets. Purple fruit, juicy berries on the palate as well, sweet spices and molten cocoa with dry tannins. Delicious.

Botalcura Cayao, Central Valley, 2003 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Malbec and Syrah it riddled with juicy
 berry, exotic spice and dark crushed floral aromas, coffee
liqueur, mint and licorice. Fresh on the entry with a supple mid-palate and long elegant finish.

for more information on Botalcura click here

 

Link to Chile - an introduction here
Link to Chile - Aconcagua Valley here
Link to Chile - Maipo Valley here
Link to Chile - Rapel Valley here