Tuscany 2-
Maremma (Grosetto and Livorno)
Posted September 5 2008
By Daenna Van
Mulligen
I
Maremma
So what is the
Maremma?
In Italiano – Mare - of course tells you it’s by the sea. But to
be more a little more specific, (although it is an area that’s hard to quantify)
it's a roughly outlined area along the coast
of south western Tuscany that primarily straddles the two provinces of Livorno and Grosetto. The most famed production zone in Maremma being Bolgheri (in Livorno)
in the north but it also includes Suvreto (Livorno), Grosetto, Scansano (Grosetto)
and then stretches southward into Lazio. Not a highly touristic spot like the
well established Chianti and Chianti Classico regions because wineries are far
between and not all are set up for visitors but this is where the big wineries
are popping up. Land is more plentiful than Chianti and less pricy as well. This
is the wild west of Tuscany where its not uncommon to see paddocks of horses and
fields filled with wheat and sunflowers.
Livorno
Like Siena and Arezzo, Livorno is both a town and a province within Tuscany. It
wraps itself alongside the Tyrrhenian coast of west-central Tuscany.
It is here, in Castagneto Carducci, that Bolgheri sits, near the center of
Livorno, close to the coast, like a dream – beautiful properties and near
perfect vineyards. It’s also a tiny village at the end of a narrow (and famous),
five kilometer stretch of road lined with cypress trees. It’s quaint and
unassuming, yet the amount of power and investment in this small region is quite
phenomenal. The kingdom of the Super Tuscans – where names such as Ornellia,
Sassicaia, Masseto, Grattamacco, Guado al Tasso…make your palate tremble in
anticipation. But there are many more wineries in this region, many we rarely if
ever see including the very new Orma ("one wine, one estate" from Tenuta Sette
Ponti I wrote about in part 1) a new 5.5 acre
estate in Castagneto Carducci and Campo alla Sughera...
Campo alla Sughera
I arrived on a day in late June when the heat was crushing and standing in the
verdant vineyards among the sandy, reddish soil was almost unpleasant. This is
the terroir that makes the grapes in Bolgheri struggle and produce the
structured, powerful wines that have become so famous – calcareous, clay and
often sandy soil with very little rainfall. The estate is 20 hectares, 17 of
which are planted with Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Vermentino, Sauvignon
Blanc and Chardonnay. The first vineyards were planted in 1998, the first
vintage was 2001, the wines have been on the market since 2004 and the modern
winery was finally completed last year. Although they have been gaining
attention from wine critics worldwide,
they are still very young and relatively
obscure.
Vineyard at Campo alla Sughera
Campo Alla Sughera
‘Arioso’ Toscana Bianco IGT, 2007 is a delicious Sauvignon Blanc blended
with a small amount of Viognier. It has bright, grassy aromas, crisp citrus,
passion-fruit and fresh mineral aromas with undertones of sweet herbs, snap peas
and gooseberry. The palate has an appealingly creamy texture with peachy
flavours on the finish and a clean, refreshing elegance.
Delicious paired with fresh, creamy pecorino with herbs and Tuscan olive oil or
caprese salad.
Campo Alla Sughera ‘Archenio’ Bolgheri Bianco DOC, 2007 blends Sauvignon
Blanc, Vermentino and Chardonnay. It has smoky, earthy, minerally aromas with
fleur de sel, tart lemon and spiced oak notes. On the palate – brown sugar and
crisp white fruit flavours set in a rich, buttery palate.
Great with medium - aged pecorino.
winemaker Giovanni Bailo (from Piedmont)
Campo Alla Sughera ‘Adèo’
Bolgheri Rosso DOC, 2006 blends Cabernet Sauvignon with 40% Merlot and
shows
sweet fruit – plums, red berries, caramel, vanilla – smoky and sweet aromas. The
flavours have good intensity
– red plums and berries, coffee and minerals with
fine, soft,
lingering tannins. Pair with Tuscan salami – prosciutto or bresola
LCBO 2004 $35
Campo Alla Sughera
‘Arnione’ Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC, 2005 the flagship wine from Campo
Alla Sughera is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon,
40% Merlot and 10%
Petit Verdot. Still youthful and a bit awkward like a teenager it is impressive
nonetheless. Dark, rich sweet fruit aromas – plums and blackberries, fragrant
purple floral notes, earth, tobacco and char on the nose. It’s plush and yet
fresh on the palate, rounded and supple with char, coffee, cedar and lingering
spices. The tannins are drying but soft.
LCBO 2003 $65, SAQ 2002 $47.75
For more information on Campo alla Sughera
click here
A spread of fresh
local pecorino and Tuscan salami at Campo alla Sughera
Gualdo del Re
A lineup of wines from
Gualdo del Re
Suvereto is hot. Blocked by the ocean winds by the Island of Elba just off
the coast, this small area in southern Livorno is a microclimate rare in most
similar geographies.
Nico Rossi and his wife Maria Teresa took over his family property in the 1990s
and although thoughtful updates have included a name change (1991 when it became Gualdo del
Re) and lovely restaurant/agritourismo, it was the decision to hire a young
female enologist ten years ago that may have been their best. Barbara Tamburini is
currently one of the hottest young enologists in Italy. This focused and precise
winemaker consults for about 20 wineries within Italy. I had the opportunity to meet Barbara three times within several
months –
Barbara Tamburini, Maria Teresa & Nico Rossi
once in Vancouver where she was a
guest speaker at the 30th
Vancouver International Playhouse Wine Festival, shortly after at Vinitaly and
again during this trip to Tuscany, where at last I was able to taste her wines.
Val di Cornia is the DOC but there is a more specific subcategory which falls
under ‘Suvreto’ which comes only from the approved varietals grown in Suvreto.
Gualdo del Re ‘Valentina’
Vermentino Val di Cornia DOC, 2006 classic to a Tuscan-style Vermentino
which are generally lush but fresh,
the Valentina is a lovely wine with golden glints and ripe fruit, honey
and floral notes, rounded and clean on the palate with bright acidity, a slightly
oily texture and zesty finish.
Gualdo del Re ‘Strale’
Toscana Bianco IGT, 2006 is a rich, lovely Pinot Blanc with bright floral
and honey aromas. Creamy white fruit reappears on the palate with hints of spice
from 8-10 months in barrique. The finish is zesty and refreshing.
Gualdo del Re ‘Eliseo
Rosso’ Val di Cornia DOC, 2005 is Sangiovese with 20% Canaiolo and shows ripe
fruit aromas - sweet cherry/berry and floral aromas. Spiced with fresh fruit and
bitter-sweet chocolate flavours with a hint of herbs.
Gualdo del Re Suvreto
Sangiovese, Val di Cornia DOC, 2003 is pure Sangiovese with chocolate cherry
aromas, rich dark earth and leathery undertones. Full-bodied with dark fruit on
the palate with more chocolate and spice that lingers. The finish is powerful
the tannins dry and fine.
Gualdo del Re ‘Federico
Primo’ Suvreto Cabernet Sauvignon, Val di Cornia DOC, 2005 is a rich ruby
colour with aromas – berries and red plums tobacco, spice and cocoa. The entry
is smooth with velvety cherry/berry flavours, the texture mid-palate slightly
dusty but the lush fruit lingers throughout with chocolate vanilla flavours on
the finish.
Gualdo del Re ‘I’Rennero’
Suvreto Merlot, Val di Cornia DOC, 2005 is a intense, plush wine with
blackberries, vanilla, sweet black cherries, coffee liqueur and undertones of
dark earth. Sweet ripe fruit throughout peppered with spices and a fantastic
linger. Delicious!
Gualdo del Re ‘Amansio’
Aleatico Passito, Val di Cornia DOC, 2005 using dried grapes in the passito
method gives this dessert wine its intensity – decadent cherry, fragrant floral,
black currant syrup aromas. Stunning, weighty, sweet and dense on the palate yet
fresh and fruity.
The Gualdo del Re people have been working with an agency in BC - I'm waiting
word on what or if any will become available.
For more information on Gualdo del Re click
here
Petra
Petra
winery a stunning architectural feat
If you build it, will they come?
Maybe, but if you want a lesson in
naming a winery that immediately conjures a vision in someone’s mind – in
this case power – you need only look at Petra. Latin for stone, ‘pietra’ was so
named for the stone upon which the winery was built. Partner to Contadi and the
lovely Franciacorta sparklers of Bellevista in Lombardy this jaw-dropping
property called Petra is owned by the Terra Moretti group - Vittorio Moretti
and his enologist daughter Francesca. Like many large wineries in Maremma the
Moretti group went looking for vineyards and ended up here – where land was less
expensive and large parcels were available – especially compared to Chianti and
Chianti Classico. The open spaces give producers control when planting vineyards
- direction, method and varietal as they see fit based on soil and site. But it
also allows them to build stunning wineries which are functional objects d'art.
Petra is certainly one of those. Terra Moretti purchased 300 hectares after soil
testing in 1997 and immediately they began to plant based on appropriate
location by varietal. This region is known for its rare rainfall and constant
breezes off the coast, in fact grapes can be left on the vines until January
with no rot. And here, the hills of Etruria, in Val di Cornia, are filled with
quartz and iron which supplied the need for metal during the Etruscan period.
The fences they have placed, up behind the winery at the edge of the forest are
to keep the dangerous wild boars away while at the old winery nearby, the Tuscan
pigs left to roam are the ones that become dinner.
The deepest part of the
Petra cellars built into the hillside behind the winery
Petra Zingari Rosso Toscana IGT, 2005 is a three way split between
Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah with 10% Petit Verdot and has aromas of sun-baked
earth, char, dark fruit with some underlying juicy red berry aromas. Intense,
structured and spiced with more sweet fruit on the palate powerful and masculine
in style, the tannins are fine and tight.
Petra ‘Ebo’ Suvreto Rosso
Val di Cornia DOC, 2005
pronounced Ay-bow is one half Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Sangiovese and
20% Merlot. Loads of red fruit, leather, coffee, dark earthy aromas and dried
fruit and spice notes. The entry shows sweet, fresh berry fruit, roasted coffee
beans, leather and oak char with soft, dusty tannins on the finish.
Petra
‘Quercegobbe’ Toscana Rosso, IGT, 2005
is 100% Merlot has cherry leather and vegetative hints followed by smoked plums,
green olives, peppery spiced and underlying meaty tones. The fruit comes across
your palate in a fresh, pure wash followed by spice, green bell peppers a hint
of raisin then coffee, tobacco and spice. Lush and supple with a persistent
finish.
Petra Toscana Rosso IGT,
2004
is Cabernet
and 30% Merlot with bold, savoury notes, currents, bitter-sweet chocolate,
sun-baked earth and a hint of floral on the nose. The sweet current aromas are
echoed on the tongue, the palate is smooth and elegant the tannins integrated,
the acidity fresh the finish is tapered and lingers with spice.
For more
information on Petra click here
If you are travelling to the Grosetto region and looking to be
pampered then you may want to check out L'Andana a renovated 16th century summer
palace. It has a spa, a cooking school, an Alain Ducasse restaurant called
Trattoria Toscana - and bathtubs the size of small swimming pools in the
guestrooms.
For information on L'Andana
click here
below -
breakfast at L'Andana
Grosetto
Travelling south from
Livorno along the Tyrrhenian coast Grosetto is the major conributer of what we
think of as Maremma. The up and coming Scansano is also here as well as
Gavoranno and inland a bit more Cinigiano a pretty region with forests and
rolling hills – different in topography than the flatter seaside. Here is also
where the DOCG of Brunello di Montalcino, and the DOCs of Morellino di Scansano
and Montecucco.
Colle Massari
The
vineyards of Castello Colle Massari in the Montecucco DOC
The winery of Castello Colle Massari slides into view after you weave along narrow
hillside roads in Cinigiano. This DOC of Montecucco feels a bit like Chianti
with its picturesque views and lush vegetation.
The winery at Colle Massari although modern, suits the landscape in a way many of the new wineries I visited on this tour
did not. In fact, when you're inside
the tasting room, you feel you are part of the surrounding hills.
Colle Massari
was founded in 1998 and their first vintage was produced in 2000. But, what
gives this winery initial credibility is their sister winery Grattamacco, one of
the two original Bolgheri Super-Tuscan estates. Grattamacco, now around 30
years old released its first Super-Tuscan blend of Cabernet, Sangiovese and
Merlot in 1978. The Grattamacco estate is 34 hectares in Castagneto Carducci (Bolgheri)
which includes the organic vineyards and a thousand olive trees.
Lineup of
bottles at Castello Colle Massari
Colle Massari ‘Melacce’
Vermentino, Montcucco DOC, 2007
is a very pretty wine with warm,sweet peachy aromas,honey, apricots and apple
blossoms and a hint of spice. Its wonderfully fresh with apple, pear, exotic
citrus fruit and minerals on the palate, the texture is softly rounded.
Colle Massari ‘Gròttolo’
Toscana Rosato IGT, 2007
is a simple yet refreshing rosè blended
from Sangiovese,
Montepulciano and Ciliegolo. It has a pale ruby/salmony hue
with summer berry, red cherry and spice aromas. The flavours are cherry juice,
spice and tobacco, its dry but
bright and crisp.
Colle Massari Rosso Riserva
Montecucco DOC, 2005
is Sangiovese with 10% each of Ciliegiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon showing aromas
of sweet spices, cherries, prune plums and rich dark earth. Its silky on the
entry with a full, rounded palate with flavours of coffee, spice and black
cherry. The mid-palate dries out, the acidity bright and the tannins are angular
and quite chewy.
Colle Massari ‘Lombrone’
Sangiovese Riserva, Montecucco DOC, 2004
is all Sangiovese with intense aromas of cedar, sandlewood, red cherry and
floral notes. The entry is silky and sweet, it grows in power but also in
austerity, the acidity is balanced the finish is quite angular and chewy with
lingering spice.
Grattamacco Bolgheri
Superiore DOC, 2005
65% Cabernet, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese is a delicious blend of plums and sweet
berry fruits, leather, coffee and earth. Opulent on the entry, full bodied with
sweet, ripe fruit, coffee and cocoa flavours. The mid-palate has good
power and
the finish lingers while the tannins soften with flavours of dark flowers,
tobacco and cedar.
LCBO $89.95 2000 vintage
SAQ 2003 $93, 2001 1.5L $215.
Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri DOC, 2006 is a 100% Vermentino with soapy, rich
aromas – wild flowers, minerals and honey. The palate is almost oily in texture
with spices, minerals and pine flavours as well as herbal – fennel and anise
seed hints. A very intriguing wine - somewhat reserved but certainly elegant.
For more information on Colle Massari and Grattamacco
click here
Rocca di Frassinello
The barrel room at Rocca di
Frassinello will hold 2000 barriques
Paolo Panerai, who purchased
Domini Castellare in Castellina in 1979, expanded his territory to Maremma
where, in partnership with Domain Baron de Rothschild-Lafitte purchased 500
hectares, parcel by parcel. In 2000 the first vineyards were planted, followed
later by the architecturally distinct Rocca di Frassinello winery. Despite the
youthful vineyards , enologists Christian Le Sommer (Domain Baron de
Rothschild-Lafitte) and Alessandro Cellai (Castellare di Rocca) felt strongly
about its quality and the first Rocca di Frasinello wine was released in 2004,
the second and third label in 2006. The winery itself was designed by world
renowned architect Renzo Piano
(also designed the Beaubourg in Paris and New
York Times offices). Its hilltop location allows gravity fed production from a
massive patio, colour-blocked design and simple modern lines. There are still
only three wines – the size of this project seems enormous for only three labels
-
but the wines are truly outstanding. The estate lies within the very young DOC of Monteregio di Massa Marittima.
above right: entrance into Rocca di Frasinello
right: colour blocking design details
Rocca di Frasinello Poggio alla Guardia, Maremma Toscana IGT, 2006
is Merlot
and Cabernet with some Sangioveto (Sangiovese). The aromas are enticing fresh
cherry and cassis with hints
of blueberry it is medium-full bodied with a fresh
palate, spice and fine, dusty tannins. This is the third vintage for this wine.
SAQ $22 2005 vintage
Le Sughere di Frasinello, Maremma Toscana IGT, 2005 is one half
Sangiovese with a quarter each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Classic
Bordeaux aromas, cassis, sweet spices, pencil shavings, green bell peppers with
earthier undertones. The palate has a bright almost spritzy quality with
flavours of red fruits, cherry, cranberry, tobacco and spice. The finish shows
fine, spicy tannins.
Rocca di Frasinello Maremma Toscana IGT, 2005
is 65% Sangiovese with 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot. A beautiful wine sweet currants and
cherries, pretty floral notes vanilla and allspice ‘cola tones’. Creamy and
full-bodied on the palate with velvety fruit, more sweet spices and lingering
‘cherry cola-like’ flavours with bright acidity. The tannins are very firm and
youthful but will soften with time. Quite stunning!
The 2006 will have Petit Verdot added.
If you want more information on Rocca di Frasinello
click here
Poggio Morino
Poggio Morino - Temporary offices in the back ground
and the hole that will become the new winery
Located in Scansano in Grosetto, Poggio Morino is a work in progress, a
hole in the ground merely waiting for its winery to be built. I visited Poggio
Morino on another superbly hot Tuscan day where I was shown around. The current 60 hectares of land were purchased
in 2002 by the Lavis Cellar Group based in Trentino, and 50 of those hectares
went under vine in 2004.
The remaining 10 hectares will be planted next year and the whole project is to
be completed in 2010.
The estate is in the wine production zone of Morellini di Scansano which became a DOCG in 2007, an
upgrade that will greatly benefit those in this region.
The wines from Poggio
Morino are becoming available now, made at its sister facilities until the
completion of the winery. The wines will feature the approved varietals of
Sangiovese (primary grape), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah.
Keep an eye out for them.
For more information click here
Looking for Tuscan wines to drink?
Terralsole Is owned by Mario and Athena Bollag. He moved
to Tuscany 25 years ago and she is a musician from California. Each bottle of
Terralsole is colourful work of art. The juice is delicious and the wines are
certainly worth seeking. I met Mario at Vinitaly in April 2008 and again a
couple months later as he passed through Vancouver.
Look for the wines in Private wine stores in BC and the following is available
in BC Signature Liquor Stores...
Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, 2003 - made from 100%
Sangiovese Grosso, this gorgeous wine will be a great addition to your cellar.
Upfront sweet, ripe cherry aromas, earth and espresso notes. Silky on the palate
with bright acidity showing creamy fruit, coffee, spiced vanilla and licorice
with soft, drying tannins on the finish.
92 points
BC $89.99
(The 2000 vintage Brunello is $67 available in LCBO stores
The 2001 is available is$ 75 in SAQ stores)
Gabbiano
Chiantio DOC, 2006 is a bargain Chianti, light weight with fresh
cherry and strawberry aromas, tobacco, leather, cedar and spice. fresh, light
and spiced on the palate - easy and simple.
88 points
BC private wine stores LCBO $13.95, SAQ $14.75
Melini Chianti Classico DOCG,
Tuscany Italy, 2006
is another bargain Chianti
available across Canada. Smoked cherry aromas, leather, clay and dark
floral notes. Simple, rustic flavours on the palate - smoothly textured with
spice, tobacco and red fruit. The acidity freshens, the finish shows dusty, dry
tannins.
Good value spaghetti wine.
87 points
$13.- $15 BC, AB, ON, Que
Donatella
Cinelli Colombini, 'Leone Rosso' Toscana IGT, 2004 - Sangiovese
and Merlot combine to make this tasty 'Super Tuscan' style blend.
Classic rustic Sangiovese aromas - saddle leather, sweet cherry, earth and red
berry notes with undertones of smoke and roasted coffee beans. The palate has
more assertive fruit than on the nose - good acidity and flavours hinting at
black cherry, spice, leather, cedar and sun-baked earth with fine drying tannins
on the finish.
90 points
$24.99 BC (also available in Alberta - price NA)
To Read Tuscany part 1 - Sienna and Arezzo
click here
