Bordeaux 2005 - vintage of the century
Posted August 20 2008
By Daenna Van Mulligen

Sometimes you just have to take an expert's word for it. When the big players of the Bordeaux wine scene start throwing out comments like "the vintage of the century" it makes you curious - no?
I don't claim to be an expert on Bordeaux, as a writer I have to many regions to cover to focus only on one - a great one yes, but still only one. Besides, there are enough 'experts' intimate with the innermost circle of this legendary region for me to rely upon for basic information until I can taste for myself.
John Clerides, owner of Marquis Wine Cellars in Vancouver may not claim to be an expert but he knows more than anyone I know and has been to Bordeaux more than anyone I know. Each September (this year will be the 13th annual) he hosts a tasting at his store on Davie Street offering buyers a chance to sample the newest vintage releases before they stock their cellars. Its a private tasting - open to those who purchase a ticket for a mere $39. That $39 is then refunded with a purchase of $400 or more (and realistically, this is Bordeaux - its not hard to make an add on sale).
A couple months before this anticipated annual event John hosts a luncheon for a few media, introducing them to the new vintage. This is a treat. The tasting will sell out regardless of any media acknowledgement, and with a vintage like 2005...well you get my meaning.
This year John brought in Jeffrey M. Davies. an American expat who moved to Bordeaux in 1974 to study at Institut d'Œnologie. Davies bounced back to the US until 1979 when he and his bordelaise wife Françoise returned to Bordeaux where he has spent thirty years brokering wine under his company name Signature Selections. Davies and John obviously have a good, longstanding relationship which allowed him to coerce Davies to our fair city to talk about Bordeaux. He's a charming man with unwavering enthusiasm and an endless knowledge of his region. Having him introduce the stunning 2005 vintage made the wines taste even better - served up with a bit of humour and bonus information. Davies says that not only are the reds in 2005 excellent but the dry whites and Sauternes as well, due to excellent conditions in the vineyards and cooperative weather. And as we all know, time brings a deeper understanding of vineyards, technology and winemaking techniques and fortunately Bordeaux as a whole is more prosperous than in previous "great vintages' like 1982.
Which means that the firmer, riper and brighter 2005 vintage may very well be the best in the last 100 years.

The stars were aligned...

Some tasting Notes from the 2005 Bordeaux selection to be released September 13, 2008 at Marquis Wine Cellars


Château Cambon la Pelouse, Haut~Médoc, 2005 - Sweet aromas - red currants with darker ripe fruit tones underneath, chocolate, coffee bean and tobacco and minerals. the palate shows dense ripe fruit as well chocolate, earth, tobacco and lush tannins.
Primarily Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
$45.90


Clos du Marquis,Saint~Julien, 2005 - Appears more refined, less voluptuous on the nose, the fruit more reserved the berry aromas elegant with classic, cedar, pencil shavings and sweet - perhaps floral notes. Cassis on the palate followed by layers of cocoa, cedar, earth, coffee and soft ripe tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon primarily.
$104.90



Château Pontet~Canet, Pauillac, 2005 - Upfront lush berry aromas - dense and sweetly spiced with a mineral base. Chewy and broad on the palate, intense currant fruit then earth, then coffee and cocoa powder - texture and flavour - lingering spice and powerful but velvety tannins.
$174.90




Château Montrose, Sainte~Estèphe, 2005 - a very appealing, brilliant ruby colour fresh and fragrant with a rich summer berry blend, loads of stone/gravel. A mouthful of richness, fruit and dense earth and coffee flavours with powerful tannins that seem less so as they are balanced with the potency of flavours and fruit.
$229.90

 

Château Palmer, Margaux, 2005 - Elegance on the nose but more so on the palate - mostly Cabernet but Merlot running a close second rounded out with Petit Verdot. Obvious fragrant floral notes and currants, leather smoky/char and dark earth. Silky, rich fruit, a velvet stroke on the palate, cherries and chocolate, then the tannins grab on at the finish. Opulent and of course from the most famous house of the tasting.
$499.90




Château Balthus, Bordeaux Supérieur, 2005 
Modern packaging with stunning intensity - 100% Merlot is one for the next generation of Bordeaux drinkers. Powerful aromas, liqueur-like intensity, dark plummy fruit, dried fruit hints, licorice, current jam, chocolate and espresso. Intense and focused on the palate oak spices, more licorice with immense, lingering, plush tannins. Wow!
$114.90
 

Château Chateau Grand Mayne, Saint~Émilion, 2005 
Primarily Merlot is dark, deep, black cherries and currents, dark earth, toast and oak and elusive aromas. On the palate reserved power - more mixed dark fruit, earth, licorice silky, smooth palate - the fruit is almost creamy the tannins ripe.
$99.90



Sauternes
Château de Malle, Sauternes, 2005 - apricot, chamomile, minerality, honey and some exotic citrus is at play here. Great acidity, quite racy,  with earthy, mushroomy and creamy caramel hints, fleur de sel and a long mouth-watering finish.
Delicious with apricot & almond tarts.
$89.90 375ml

Château Lafaurie~Peyraguey, Sauternes, 2005 - Herbal, peachy, honey and tea leaf aromas. Slick on the palate with a freshness that differs from the Malle - brighter and boozier on the palate yet denser with great acidity and an amazingly long brown sugar finish. Lovely with Crème Chantilly.
$104.90 375ml

Some good value 2005 Bordeaux John Clerides pointed out to me with some approximate prices...

Château Charmail, Haut~Médoc    $45
Château Cornelie, Haut~Médoc     $35
Château Le Garde, Pessac Léognan    $50
Château La Prade, Côtes de France     $45
Château Le Pin Beausoleil, Bordeaux Supérieur   $50
Château Sénéjac, Haut~Médoc       $50
Clos Puy Arnaud, Côtes~de~Castillon   $55
Clos de Jaugueyron, Margaux        $110

*Please note that there will still be plenty of the 2005 vintage to buy after the release tasting on September 13th but first come, first serve!

Marquis Wine Cellars - 1034 Davie Street, Vancouver BC., 604-684-0445