New Zealand
Wairarapa
North Island                                                                  sister site to WineDiva.ca
posted July 2011
By Daenna Van Mulligen

"Is it always this bumpy?"
The man across the aisle from me asked a very pregnant flight attendant.
The flight attendant was sitting facing our front row seats as we began our descent.
"Pretty much," she responded smiling, "but this is nothing, this is about a 4.5 out of 10 for turbulence."
Just then, as the plane curved downward into a deeper descent toward Wellington the small aircraft began to toss in earnest.
"Okay, maybe a 6.5 out of 10," she laughed....

By this point I had been in windy
New Zealand for two weeks. I had
been in smaller planes and
experienced bumpier flights so I
was now somewhat used to it, and
the capabilities of Air NZ pilots.
(Read more on my observations of New Zealand here)

(right: just off the coast South Island before landing in Wellington)

Wellington is located on the southern tip of the North Island of New Zealand - directly across the Cook Strait from Marlborough on the South Island. It's so close you can see it from the Marlborough coast.
With a population less than 400,000, the capital of New Zealand is not the largest city in the country (Auckland is), nor is it the second largest (Christchurch is). But Wellington is a lovely, vibrant city with a fantastic food and arts culture. I was merely passing through though, on my way to Martinborough, the anchor of Wairarapa.

It is a beautiful drive from Wellington through the mountains to Martinborough, a village about an hour
away from the capital. The proximity to Wellington is
perfect for weekend getaways and day trips to Wairarapa wine country - the influence of tourism is noticeable by the number of restaurants located on and around Martinborough's main square.
I stayed in a lovely, quaint inn on the square called Pepper's Martinborough Hotel (right) that was built in 1882 - its downstairs saloon-type bar was by far the busiest place in town.
Martinborough was established in 1879 and was named after farmer and runholder (owner of a sheep or cattle station) John Martin.
Martinborough has a population of less than 1500 people, it has no parking meters and no stop-lights, but plenty of great wine and some delicious food too!


Wairarapa - wine country

Wairarapa consists of three sub-regions - Martinborough, Gladstone and Masterton.
Martinborough is the most established and most widely recognized, but don't make the mistake of ignoring the other two sub-regions.

The entire region is defined by the western Tararua Range and the Ruamahunga River, which runs through all three regions, starting in the north in Masterton, through Gladstone and continuing past Martinborough.
Ancient stony, free-draining and silty river loam soils make up the terroir and the Rimutaka Ranges creates a rain shadow, keeping the region dry - the driest place on the North Island.
Now, more ore than thirty years after the first vineyards were planted near Martinborough village, it is a thriving community of wineries growing Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, aromatic whites. But despite its nearness to Wellington and being home to New Zealand's Grand Cru Pinot Noir producer, Wairarapa still seeks its share of New Zealand's wine fame.
Perhaps that is because the percentage of Kiwi wine that comes out of Wairarapa is so small, that the world has yet to get a true taste of what this exceedingly special region can produce.
Like a raw diamond, with only a few facets shining  through, patience and skill will polish Wairarapa into the brilliant gem it truly is.

Although the oldest grape growing area of the three sub-regions (vines were planted by settlers in the early 1900s) Masterton is the least developed of the trio and has a slightly higher rainfall than the other two sub-regions..

Gladstone is known for its river terraces and alluvial soils, built up over centuries. The sub-regions plentiful sunshine and low rainfall drew people to plant vines here in the late 1980s.
The region is known for its cool, dry climate, low rainfall, rich mineral-laden soils and low yields.

Four pioneers (Clive Paton from Ata Rangi being one) first planted vines in Martinborough in 1980 after some fairly impressive scientific research discovered how similar to Beaune, Burgundy the terroir here was. The driest of all three regions (and the driest winegrowing region on the North Island) the soils here are comprised of ancient alluvial riverbed stones and pockets of clay.

The Pinot Noirs of Wairarapa have gained international recognition and praise. I traveled to the region specifically to taste these Pinot Noirs. What I found were elegant and fruit-forward versions with a savoury core that showed excellent structure and consistency.

Martinborough sub-region

Ata Rangi
the cellar door & tasting room at Ata Rangi in Martinborough


Ata Rangi, which means new beginning is arguably the most famous Martinborough-based winery, on a world wide scale.
In 2010, alongside Felton Road,
(read about Felton Road here)
Ata Rangi was awarded New Zealand's prestigious inaugural Tipuranga Teitei o Aotearoa, (Maori for Grand Cru or Great Growth) in recognition of their Pinot Noir.
(right: Picnicking with Clive Paton)

I had met Clive Paton and his wife Phyll briefly, during an international Pinot Noir tasting in Vancouver a couple of years prior to my visit to New Zealand.
But no matter how many times you meet a winemaker, its always better to meet them on their own soil.
So, there I sat, on a verandah across from the rustic cottage used as Ata Rangi's cellar door, on a mild
summer's day with Clive and Phyll, their young
golden lab Rata (right) and her rather rambunctious
"Baby", tasting (as luck would have it) wine.

Clive Paton and three other wine pioneers first planted their vines just outside of Martinborough village in 1980, after some fairly impressive scientific research discovered how similar to Beaune, Burgundy the terroir here was.
Today, thirty-one years later Clive and Phyll, along with Clive's sister Alison manage Ata Rangi and the wine is made by Helen Masters. Being able to rely upon his family, Masters and vineyard manager Gerry Rotman allows Clive to focus his attentions on issues close to his heart, such as conservation projects.

Ata Rangi's Conservation Programs
Like the vast majority of New Zealand winegrowers,
Ata Rangi is a member of Sustainable Wine Growers
 (see point 5 "New Zealand the Green" here) .
But even more impressive is Paton's Bush Block where he has planted 14,000 trees, 4000 of those are native varieties.
Paton's favourite, the native Rata (known as Christmas trees) trees can be recognized by their brilliant crimson flowers which bloom around Christmas. These endangered trees are are being replanted under Project Crimson and proceeds from Ata Rangi's approachable and delicious Crimson Pinot Noir support Project Crimson.

 
The Wines

Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, 2010 available in British Columbia, this fresh and floral
Savvy offers verdant citrus and grass, stone fruit
and mineral aromas. Fine boned, not in-you-face
but clean and full of lively acidity.

Ata Rangi ''Lismore' Pinot Gris, Martinborough, 2010 - this is a very appealingly fragrant wine - creamy pear compote and marshmallow with vanilla and hints of spiced nuts. Nice creamy palate, a kiss of sweetness and long finish.

Ata Rangi 'Petrie' Chardonnay, Wairarapa, 2009
Also available in private wine stores in BC the Petrie
is a seduction of creamy orchard fruit, caramel, white blossoms, exotic spice and mineral. It has a lovely weight, lively citrus  flavours and a refreshing finish.
The Petrie vineyard is some 30 km north of the winery.
$30+

Ata Rangi 'Craighall' Chardonnay, Martinborough, 2009 - The Craighall vineyard sits right across the road from the Ata Rangi home vineyard, winery and
cellar door. An elegant wine with aromas of
honeycomb, mineral and stone fruits, with a hint of
smoke. The palate is creamy and offers sweet ripe
 fruit, spiced caramel and citrus. Impressive
concentration and length.

Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir, Martinborough, 2009 approachable sweet raspberries, delicate floral notes and white pepper. The palate is supple and generous
with similar raspberry and red cherry flavours and it
lingers with sweet spices and cedar flavours.
$28

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, Martinborough, 2009 - aromatic raspberry, cherry and floral notes - very fresh and complex aromas. Plush yet pristine fruit, with cocoa
and fine peppery notes on the tongue. There is a hint
of leathery, forest floor savoury character and
impressive power on the finish.
$60+

Te Kairanga



Restored cellar door & tasting room built by John Martin more than 140 years ago

Te Kairanga's history long precedes the winery and its vineyards.
The tasting room/cellar door was a house built more than 140 years ago by John Martin - Martinborough's namesake.
The house (or shack as they call it) sits just outside of Martinborough on a lovely and well -tended property surrounded by trees and lawn on one side and the winery (built in 2002) on the other.
In 1983 a small group of Wellingtonians planted the home block vineyard with Riesling and Pinot Noir vines. The land holdings have since expanded to roughly 117 hectares and six vineyards in three different locations. Te Kairanga is the largest vineyard operator based in Martinborough and, after some turmoil, was purchased this spring by an American billionaire who also owns a luxury lodge in Wairarapa. This new investment sounds like great news for Te Kairanga - it is an important part of Martinborough, and Wairarapa's wine history.

The wines - made by winemaker Wendy Potts

Te Kairanga Estate Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 This partially barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc offers pretty aromas of gooseberry, apples and candied citrus with undertones of capsicum and cut grass. The palate is juicy but has a creamy texture and flavours of exotic citrus. Nicely balanced with a clean, snappy finish.

Te Kairanga Estate Chardonnay, 2009 This wine
launches with toast and caramel notes, citrus,
stone fruits and brown spice, notably clove.
The palate is lighter than expected from the
nose, here citrus flavours are rounded out with
warm spice, the acidity is bright.

Te Kairanga 'Runholder' Chardonnay, 2008 The nose here is dominated by wild honey, leesy notes, caramel and spiced oak, supported with stone fruit and citrus. The palate launches into sweet fruit and caramel and lingers with warm spice. Very nicely balanced, deft use of oak.


Te Kairanga Estate Pinot Noir, 2009 Aromas of cherry, red berries and baking spice with undertones of forest floor and herbs. Very approachable in style, the generous fruit and spice flavours make this
wine good for sipping or pairing with salmon,
or earthier mushroom or beet dishes.


Te Kairanga 'Runholder' Pinot Noir, 2007 Much more savoury than the Estate Pinot Noir, the Rumholder offers leather, bacon fat and forest floor with undertones of spice and red cherry. It is very old world in style - plenty of red cherry and earthy components, smooth with bright acidity.


Te Kairanga 'John Martin' Pinot Noir, 2007 Fresh mountain stream minerality, saddle leather and herbal notes wound around red fruit aromas. Nice elegance, and old world style with very savoury flavours and silky tannins.

 

Gladstone sub-region

Gladstone Vineyard

The pond on the beautiful Gladstone Vineyard Estate

The day I toured Wairarapa was one of the few overcast days I faced during my adventures in New Zealand. But the weather in no way dampened the spirits of the throngs of people arriving at Gladstone Vineyard for the late summer sculpture exhibit called 'Sculpture in the Country'.
Scattered across the beautiful Gladstone Vineyard property, sculptures large and small from 45 various Kiwi artists dotted the landscape. I had some time to wander the grounds and take some photos before sitting down with Christine Kernohan (right) for a tasting followed by lunch in her busy Vineyard Cafe.

Located on the ancient riverbed of the Ruamahanga River in the sub-region of Gladstone in Wairarapa, Gladstone Vineyards was established in 1986.
The winery was purchased in 1996 by Christine and her husband David Kerohan who had emigrated to New Zealand in 1970 from Glasgow Scotland. While neither of them having experience in the wine industry, Christine who had taken wine appreciation courses says she "had a mid-life crisis", and decided to start making wine.
Since the purchase in 1996, Gladstone has become a hub of community events, a popular wine tourism destination and has garnered some very impressive international accolades.
In addition to the original vineyards, Christine and
her architect husband David have added the popular
Vineyard Cafe, increased the size of the vineyards and built a new winery with anticipation for further growth.
Christine Kernohan makes her wines under the Gladstone Vineyard label as well as a second label called 12,000 miles in reference to the distance between Scotland and New Zealand.

The Wines

12,000 Miles Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Smoky, minerally aromas, leesy notes, wild honey, citrus and capsicum. An elegant package and creamy texture with focused mineral and citric flavours. Nice intensity and a long finish.

Gladstone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 - vibrant guava and citrus, capsicum, grass clippings and lovely mineral aromas. Plenty of fruit sweetness on the entry, smooth and silky with a taut,
mouth-watering finish. Nice complexity.
*Look for this wine in Alberta and Quebec

Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Gris, 2010 A fruit-cup of pear, apple and nectarine aromas, honey and snappy citrus. Nicely balanced in the mouth - a rounded palate with flavours of ripe fruit, honey and caramel hints. The finish is long and lively.

12,000 Miles Pinot Noir, 2009 Delicate, pristine fruit - sweet and spicy cherries and red briary berries, forest floor and a hint of cocoa. The palate follows suit with juicy red fruit and a long sweet and spicy finish. Very nicely balanced and silky.

Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2009 Aromatic floral notes, sweet cherries, warm spice and raspberry. The entry is silky and laden with liberal fruit. Impressive layers, nice complexity and fine polished tannins on the finish.
(read my recent bottle review of this wine here)
*Look for this wine in Alberta and Quebec

Gladstone Viognier, 2010 pretty orange blossom notes, honey, stone fruit and exotic citrus aromas. An appealing palate weight - oily but vibrant with plenty of spice and mineral flavours. Not a blousy or potent style - more elegant and reserved, representative of the region.

Gladstone Vineyard Auld Alliance, 2008 An impressive blend of 59% Cabernet Franc, 16.5% each of Merlot and Malbec and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon from the nearby stony soil Dakins Road vineyard. Aromas of black berries, cocoa, green beans, leather, and cedar spice box. Lovely weight and structure, mixed red and black fruit flavours and plenty of charm.


One of many sculptures by 45 different Kiwi artists exhibited at 'Sculpture in the Country' at Gladstone Vineyard March 2011.

Paddy Borthwick - Borthwick Vineyard


view from the Borthwick winery across the vineyard toward the Ruamahanga River

It would be impossible to not like Paddy Borthwick; he has the kind of smile and laughing eyes that make you smile in return and energy simply radiates off of him. I almost expected him to break into a gallop as we were walking though his vineyard on the way to the Ruamahanga River.

We drove past the unmarked entrance to Borthwick Vineyard and had to double back -despite being home to a number of wineries, Dakins Road, where the winery sits is still a very rural area.
Borthwick is a fairly newly built (completed in 2004) and functioning winery but the space allotted for a cellar door remains empty, except for a massive, handsome table set off to one side.
When the need for a tasting room and picnic area arises they'll be ready and the grounds have the
potential to be a lovely destination. For now,
Paddy Borthwick is happy to keep his focus on the vineyard and the wine.
The 20 or so hectares here in Gladstone are bordered by Wairarapa's very important Ruamahanga River. The lands here are ancient river terraces of free draining alluvial soil, different from (Borthwick pointed to the range in the distance)  the hills which are clay and limestone.
Borthwick worked in Marlborough after graduating with a winemaking degree from South Australia's famed Roseworthy College. Although his first vintage 1999 release was met with accolades, it wasn't until 1986 the Borthwick Vineyard was planted. Paddy currently has plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling.
The good news is, Borthwick has began exporting to British Columbia, Ontario and Quebec - so look for
 the Paddy Borthwick wines in stores and on wine lists soon.

(above right vines at Borthwick planted on ancient
alluvial river stones)

The wines

Borthwick Vineyard Riesling, 2010 Appealing aromas of apricots, limes and honey with spring blossoms. The palate is juicy and tangy - mouthwatering flavours of stone fruit and citrus peel layered with mineral flavours.

Borthwick Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 Very nice concentration. Aromas of guava, passion fruit, capsicum with a hint of buttered corn. The palate follows suit - lively citrus is layered with buttery flavours and capsicum - the finish is long and tangy.
$20+ private wine stores BC


Borthwick Vineyard Pinot Gris, 2010  Extremely fresh and fragrant with plenty of sweet, ripe pear and pretty floral aromas. A creamy, satisfying palate offers generous fruit and a mouth-watering finish.


Borthwick Vineyard Chardonnay, 2009 - A very unique Chardonnay offering aromas of lemons and white pepper, stone fruit, saline minerality and pralines. Amazingly old world in style - elegant and balanced with citrus, pear and nut and caramel hints, which trail across the finish.


Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir, 2009
A feminine style of Pinot Noir that offers vibrant cherry and raspberry aromas with warm spices - notably star anise. The palate is juicy - it is an approachable and silky  Pinot with sweet ripe fruit and peppery
spice flavours.
$25 On (2008 vintage)


Borthwick Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2009 Like the Paper Road Pinot this is also a more delicate and feminine style that offers attractive raspberry and sweet cherry aromas, fine spice and earthy mineral notes. An elegant wine with a silky, attractively weighted palate and fine, sweet tannins on the finish.
$35 On (2008 vintage)








Other producers and wines I recommend from Wairarapa

Alana Estate Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2010

Martinborough Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Martinborough Vineyard  TeTera Pinot Noir, 2009


Matahiwi EstateSauvignon Blanc, 2010
Matahiwi Estate Pinot Noir, 2009


Johner Estate Pinot Gris, 2010
Johner Estate Riesling, 2010
Johner  Estate Chardonnay, 2010
Johner Estate Cabernet Merlot, 2008

Tiwaiwaka Silver Label Pinot Noir, 2010

Pond Paddock Te Muna Pinot Noir, 2009

Cambridge Road Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2009
Cambridge Road Vineyard Syrah, 2008

Brodie Estate Pinot Noir, 2009

Te Hera Kiritea Pinot Noir, 2009
Te Hera Pinot Noir, 2008




An Intro to New Zealand read here
South Island
Wairapa/Canterbury - Christchurch's wine region read here
Central Otago The Land of Pinot Noir read here
Marlborough - the Savviest place on Earth read here

North Island
Hawkes Bay - bold reds and elegant whites from Hill, Range & Gravels here
Auckland & Waiheke Island - where history is made here                                

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