New Zealand
Hawke's Bay
North Island                                                                         sister site to WineDiva.ca
posted July 2011
By Daenna Van Mulligen


The stunning, must-see estate at Craggy Range in Hawke's Bay



Although I had tasted a few wines from Hawke's Bay prior to my arrival, I simply didn't fully grasp what this warm North Island region was capable of, and how truly unique it is.

I was honestly impressed by what I discovered upon arrival.

My flight from Wellington arrived in Napier on a sunny afternoon in March. From there a half hour cab ride, south to the town of Hastings presented a good opportunity to get the scoop on the upcoming Rugby World Cup, from my eager Maori driver.
It seems, Pool A's Canadian rugby team will be playing both Japan and France in Napier.
Go Canada!

Hastings is a lovely town, so near to Napier that they are often referred to as the twin cities. But Hastings has its own hub and I stayed in the heart of it, walking distance to a great cup of morning coffee - skinny, flat white, two sugars.

I would get into Napier twice during my stay, sadly both times at night so I was unable to get a good sense of the art deco architecture that Napier was rebuilt with, after a devastating earthquake leveled it in 1931. But I did get to see what was most important, the vineyards of Hawke's Bay. And, as with all the regions I visited i New Zealand, Hawke's Bay Winegrowers put together a quick tutorial and quite extensive tasting of the wines from the area.

Hawke's Bay Winegrowing Region

The primarily coastal Hawke's Bay winegrowing region gets its name from Hawke Bay to the east. Here, Chardonnay and big reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc are the focus, but I did discover some fantastic Viognier , Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc as well.
Hawke's Bay is the warmest of New Zealand's winegrowing regions with the most sunlight.
It is also considered the oldest established wine growing region in the country having its start in 1851.
Several important rivers flow from the western hills toward Hawke Bay; the Tutaekuri River, the Ngaruroro and the Tukituki River. There are also many appellations within New Zealand's second largest region that can be somewhat confusing to remember. In the north, beyond Napier is Esk River and moving southward: Dartmoor Valley, Korokipo, Heretaunga Plains, the famed Gimblett Gravels, Bridge Pa and tight against Hawke Bay and the South Pacific Ocean is Te Awanga. Moving southward even more, Havelock North Hills, Tuki Tuki Valley and Central Hawkes Bay. Looking westward on the map of Hawkes Bay you'll also notice: Ohiti, Mangatahi Terraces and Crownthorpe Terraces.

But there is more to the terroir of Hawke's Bay than just sun and heat, the soils are free draining and the fertility poor. Low rainfall is assisted even more by warm north westerly winds and the growing season is lengthy, which allows the regions signature red varieties to fully mature.
* you'll notice Hawkes Bay spelled with or without the apostrophe - it seems to be personal choice.

Gimblett Gravels
You simply cannot mention Hawke's Bay without mentioning Gimblett Gravels. This visually unattractive and flat 800 hectares of land was suitable for nothing save a racing track and a nearby rubbish dump. The stony remnants, left behind after a mid-1800s flood of the ancient Ngaruroro River, were not congenial to agriculture or stock.
The discovery that vines would fare extremely well here on the free draining unfertile soils was a turning point for Hawke's Bay, and especially for those who managed to get a piece of this stony pie.
In 2001 Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association became official.
It is the first winegrowing appellation in the world to be designated strictly by soil type and those within the boundaries of Gimblett Gravel Winegrowing District must adhere strictly to the Gimblett Gravels
Winegrowers Association's mandate in order to use
Gimblett Gravels on their labels.
According to the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association, the region was first planted in grapes in 1981with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
Prior to 1991, only 20ha of the region was planted in grapes which grew to over 200ha by 1997 followed by another 400ha being planted since 1998.
The region sits at approximately 30 meters above sea level and is comprised of 80% red grape varieties: 44% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah (first planted in 1993), 6% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc. There are also very small pockets of Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Petit Verdot, Gamay Noir, Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Tempranillo.
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and small pockets of aromatic varietals, Arneis, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier make up the remaining 20% of land.



Elephant Hill



I cannot count the amount of
wineries, cellar doors and restaurants I have visited around the world, all are special for some reason or another but a few are at the forefront of my mind when I drift back over my travels.
Elephant Hill is one of those places.
Located seaside in Te Awanga, Elephant Hill is a luxurious, modern and sleek estate. Not to infer there is no warmth, it's just quite spectacular. There was no money spared here, the German owners successfully built a piece of art that functions as vineyards, a winery, cellar door and restaurant.
From the vine and palm lined driveway and
mammoth Burmese elephant carving to the pre-aged
copper facade, soaring ceilings and floor to
ceiling windows to the and eternity pool and
resident pukekos, Elephant Hill should not be missed.

Winemaker Steve Skinner and viticulturist Brittany
 Thompson (above right) make sure that what's in the bottles is every bit as impressive as the winery itself.  Skinner, who previously worked in finance, has made wine in France, California, Canada and Hawke's Bay winery Trinity Hill. "Hawke's Bay varies dramatically vintage to vintage. We're always trying
to draw from experience, but here that is very
difficult." Skinner told me. Syrah and Viognier
are the focus at Elephant Hill
but as Skinner says, "Sauvignon Blanc will always
be huge." Brittany Thompson, who hails from
California, arrived here in 2008. "The sharing of information is what has made New Zealand grow so quickly" referring to the wine industry, "it
has accelerated the industry as a whole."

Skinner believes the slightly cooler climate, due to the proximity the ocean, makes for great aromatic whites and Syrah but the 25 hectare Elephant Island home vineyard is also planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and some Tempranillo.


The wines

Elephant Hill Pinot Noir Rose, 2010 - made
from Alexandra, Central Otago Pinot Noir this
rose is a brilliant cranberry/watermelon in colour with attractive red berry, spice and floral notes. The palate is mostly dry with an attractive weight and lively acidity to cleanse your palate.

Elephant Hill Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2010 - Impressively perfumed with jalapeno spring blossoms, nettles, pepper and grapefruit. The palate offers a beautiful weight and elegance - the fruit is lively, it is bone dry and the finish mouth-watering.

Elephant Hill Estate Viognier , 2010 read review here

Elephant Hill Airavata Viognier, 2009 -  This premium Viognier is simply divine. Up-front floral, mango and
apricots, toasted toffee, orange blossoms, ginger
and star anise. The palate is both lush and lively
with honey, exotic spice and tropical fruit with a savoury
mushroom/forest floor undertones.

Elephant Hill Estate Syrah, 2009 - Deep purple in colour with wonderful, floral, grapey and peppery notes, generous black cherry and purple berry fruit, vanilla and chocolate with savoury undertones. The palate is laden with plush purple berry flavours and pepper flavours. Powdery tannins linger across the palate and become quite grippy on the finish. Impressive structure, nicely balanced acidity.

Elephant Hill Airavata Syrah, 2009 - Purple ruby in colour this premium Syrah immediately presents itself as leaning toward old world in style. Pepper, blackberries, sweet tobacco and mixed spice. The palate is silky, the fruit here is ripe and layered with spice and bittersweet chocolate. Fine and polished but powerful tannins.
 

Dinner at Elephant Hill in Hawke's Bay

C.J. Pask


C.J Pask Gimblett Road vineyard, Hawke's Bay


C.J. Pask is one of Hawke's Bay's most established wineries. When once the winery sat outside the city limits of Hastings, urban sprawl has placed C.J. Pask in the middle of light industrial businesses, which have grown around it.
Chris Pask was the first to see the potential of planting on very poor soils in what is now known as Gimblett Gravels. Pask planted those vines off Gimblett Road in 1981 and C.J Pask was established in 1985.

Kate Radburnd (below right) joined Pask in 1991 and became a shareholder in 1993. Radburnd is a respected winemaker and wine judge in New Zealand. In fact, Radburnd is one of three qualified palates who choose the wines that will be poured
on Air New Zealand's long haul flights.
for the annual Air New Zealand Wine Awards, a
director of New Zealand Winegrowers since 1999
and she has been instrumental in the development
of the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand program.
Before sitting down and tasting with Radburnd I paid a visit to the famed Gimblett Gravels and Gimblett Road vineyards with Radburnd's associate winemaker Russell Wiggins early one day. As I mentioned earlier in my notes about Gimblett Gravels (above) the district is more famous for it's specific soils and the characteristics the wines grown here attain than it is about beautiful vistas and enchanting vineyards.
As far as the eye could see, it was flourishing vines. Like most of the vineyards I visited in New Zealand was within a week or two of harvest, so the berries were sweet and showed their typicity.
Wiggens (right) took me through a couple of C.J.Pask
sections, planted with Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc,
Pinot Gris and Viognier. Wiggens explained that the gravelly soils were good for drainage and the addition of silt added complexity and of the roughly 90 hectares C.J. Pask has here, about 60 are planted.

The wines

C.J. Pask 'Roy's Hill' Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 - Softer aromas than those from Marlborough -  stone fruit layered with capsicum, mown lawn and citrus. Nice roundness on the palate, lively acidity, subtle fruit and a fresh citrus and herbal finish.
$18 MB/NS

C.J Pask 'Roy's Hill' Merlot, 2009 - Aromas of red plums and lifted herbal tones, mocha and spice. Expect a fine tannin structure on the palate, this is an approachable wine, which is more savoury than fruity.
$18 Que/MB/NS

C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Viognier, 2010 - Fragrant exotic citrus, warm rich spice, orange blossoms and stone fruit. The palate follows suit - ripe peaches and nectarine but it is fresh and bright with a crisp finish. The texture is weighty and pleasing but not unctuous.

C.J. Pask 'Declaration' Gimblett Road Chardonnay, 2008 - Declaration refers to the best, C.J. Pask declares it, although only in the best years. Aromas of stone fruit and spiced pears with a base of toasted oak. Creamy and spiced on the palate, lovely weight and lively acidity. The 100% new French oak is nicely balanced here and the finish is lengthy.

C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Syrah, 2009 - The nose is fruit forward and fresh with black fruits - cherry, berry and plum, which are supported with pepper, earth and cocoa notes. That freshness carries through
on the palate, there are silky tannins throughout,
juicy black fruit, and cocoa flavours lead to a peppery finish.

C.J. Pask 'Declaration' Gimblett Road Merlot, 2006 - Plums, toffee and mocha, a hint of fresh herbs layered with earthy, leathery notes. Firm and fine but polished tannins, black fruit, and roasted coffee flavours that cling to the finish. Impressive structure and a long finish.
$52 Que

C.J. Pask 'Declaration' Gimblett Road Syrah, 2009 - This wine had not yet been labeled when I was tasting it in March. Fresh and forward, cherries and black berry aromas, baking spice, chocolate and vanilla. Less spicy than the other Syrah Kate had poured for me but plenty of juicy dark fruit on the palate. Youthful tannins, still quite tightly wound but obviously a feminine, elegant wine.

C.J. Pask 'Declaration' Gimblett Road Cabernet~Merlot~Malbec, 2006 - Quite intense and direct  fruit aromas, cassis and spiced plums, mint and roasted herbs. Supple palate, generous dark plum and berry flavours layered with minerals. The finish is broad, the tannins polished.


Sileni Estate

The Sileni Estate is fantastic stop for visitors looking to grab a bite to eat, shop an impressive selection of New Zealand epicurean delights and wine related merchandise and of course taste wine. The winery and visitors center is impressive and the estate quite vast.
Located in a specifically warm region of Hawke's Bay, just past Bridge Pa,
Sileni was established in 1997 by  wine lover Graeme Avery, a pharmaceutical scientist and former owner of medical publishing company Adis International, with winemaker Grant Edmonds.
Avery named the winery Sileni a Roman mythology sidekick to Bacchus, the God of Wine.
They own vineyards that spread from Te Awanga on the coast to inland Hawke's Bay as well, they source grapes from about a dozen growers throughout the
region. 
Sileni makes a wide range of wines under various labels and a trio of sparkling wines and Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough.
(right: senior winemaker Rachal Garnham)

The wines

Sileni Sauvignon Blanc Sparkling, NV - a carbonated wine that is fun and aromatic. Talc floral notes and candied citrus peel with hints of mown lawn. A fresh moussy palate offers sweet bright flavours and balanced acidity.


Sileni Pinot Gris Sparkling, NV - this fun carbonated bubbly has a slightly pink hue and offers mixed orchard fruits (notably pears), honey and candied
citrus peel aromas. The palate follows suit, it is
moussy and vibrant with a zesty finish.
*notice the Zork recloseable cork (right)
$12.50-$18 across Canada

Sileni 'Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, Hawke's Bay, 2010 - Again, a fresh wine that offers aromas of raspberry, violets and vanilla. Approachable and light in the mouth with some additional tobacco, peppery spice and herbal flavours to round it out.
$14.50-$24 across Canada

Sileni Estate 'The Plateau' Pinot Noir, Hawke's Bay, 2008 Attractive cherry and raspberry fruit, violets, some toast and coffee hints. Sweet berry/cherry fruit slide across the palate with spice and vanillin oak flavours. Silky texture.
$18 ON

Sileni Estate 'The Peacemaker' Cabernet Franc, 2009 - this single vineyard Cabernet Franc is very impressive. Lovely currents and floral notes, tobacco leaf and sweet spice. Cherry cordial flavours, green olive and cocoa slide across the palate. Nice freshness, an approachable wine.


Trinity Hill



A seed of an idea in 1987 led to a land purchase in in 1993, the planting of vines in 1994, the first vintage in 1996 and finally to the winery being built, in 1997.
Trinity Hill was named in tribute to it's trio of owners - John Hancock, Robert and Robyn Wilson (owners of London’s Bleeding Heart and The Don restaurants) and Aucklanders Trevor and Hanne Janes. 
The winery and initial vineyards are located on State Highway  50 near Gimblett Road in central Hawk's Bay. Since then, Trinity Hill has increased their Gimblett Gravels holdings and became a founding member of the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association.
Trinity Hill also sources fruit from cooler Hawke's Bay Hills
The winery and cellar door feel a bit like you have stepped into a modern/gothic novel, concrete and glass, sky high ceilings decorated with massive mirrors, deep maroon red and velvet accents,
Champagne riddling racks, ornate frames and candelabras. The estate around the winery is a delight of manicured lawns, cabbage trees and roses with a focal point fountain and pond.
Winemaker (right) Warren Gibson (who has worked with Hancock for a combined 20 years) met me to taste through some of Trinity Hill's award-winning wines.

The wines

Trinity Hill Sauvignon Blanc (white label) 2010 - A more savoury savvy offering mown lawn, nettle, capsicum, white grapefruit and passion fruit notes. The palate follows suit - zesty to the point of spicy with plenty of sweet citrus with nectarine flavours lingering on the finish.

Trinity Hill John Hancock Pinot Gris (white label), 2009 - the addition of 10% Viognier makes this wine very unique. Aromas of Asian pears, a hint of stone fruit, exotic floral notes and bright citrus. Clean lively fruit, saline mineral flavours with a lush and spicy finish. Nice power here but with brisk acidity to balance.

Trinity Hill Metis Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 - made in a partnership with Sancerre-based Pascal Jolivet this Sauvignon offers pristine notes of pink grapefruit, grass clippings, gooseberries and floral talc reminiscent of soap candies. A creamy, supple weight on the palate, suggests leesy, mineral flavours with star anise, lemongrass and basil. Impressive and lengthy.

Trinity Hill Chardonnay (black label) Gimblett Gravels, 2009  - Juicy citrus, white blossoms, leesy notes and buttered corn with oak spice. Good balance on the palate, vibrant fruit and citrus flavours are rounded out by toast and spice.

Trinity Hill Syrah (white label), 2009 - Expect upfront pepper on the nose, black raspberries, dried plum, licorice and spice. Sweet, hi toned fruit is rounded out with pepper and savoury flavours. Silky texture and smooth tannins.

Trinity Hill Syrah (black label), Gimblett Gravels, 2008 - This wine launches with fragrant raspberry and blueberry aromas, peppery spices, chocolate and espresso. Elegant and concentrated on the palate with fine polished tannins, nicely woven and
lengthy.  Very impressive.

Trinity Hill Tempranillo (black label), Gimblett Gravels, 2008 - Red berries, red cherry, fresh and juicy with undertones of spicebox and tobacco. The palate follows suit with tart and juicy red fruit, cocoa and cedar with tobacco. Nicely weighted and smooth.

Trinity Hill 'The Gimblett', Gimblett Gravels, 2008 - Made from almost equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with splashes of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Inky in colour with fruit forward aromas of cassis and plums, chocolate, graphite, baking spices and tobacco. In the mouth - plush, concentrated and mouth-filling with plenty of chocolate leading to a clove flavoured finish. Quite savoury, almost chewy with a smooth finish.


Craggy Range



There are few spots more beautiful than Craggy Range.
One of Hawke's Bay's (and New Zealand's) most famous producers, Craggy Range is a must-visit for wine lovers.
Located behind the foot of Hawke's Bay's famous (at right) Te Mata peak (Maori legend explains this range as the sleeping giant - from afar, it does resemble the profile of an entire sleeping giant), Craggy Range was once a sheep station. The site was chose not to plant vineyards but as the site for the winery, visitors center, tasting room and fantastic barrel shaped Terroir restaurant.
Sprawling lawns, a pond the size of a small lake (home to many birds), rental cottages and an inspiring dining patio complete this modern winery.
The winery, opened in 2003, was designed to look
like a small village with various buildings al linked
by style.
(right, wooden fermenters at Craggy Range)

Owned by the Peabody family, Craggy Range began as a vision by Terry Peabody in 1997 to grow a business that every member of the family could be involved in. With the help of Master of Wine and viticulturist Steve Smith, their dream came true. The family divides its time between three residences in Brisbane Australia, Hawke's Bay and Whistler B.C.
Craggy Range makes wines from their own vineyards and harvest grapes from established vineyards in Central Otago, Marlborough, Martinborough and Hawke's Bay. They have two wineries, the main estate called the Giants Winery in North Havelock and the State Highway 50 winery called SH50 at Gimblett Gravels.

On the day of my visit, newly designated Master of Wine Michael Henley, Marketing Manager at Craggy Range took me on a tour of the winery before tasting the Craggy Range wines. Soon after we were joined by T.J. Peabody (right) on the Terroir patio for a lovely lunch on a memorable warm and clear day.

The wines

 Craggy Range Riesling, Marlborough, 2009 - from the oldest Riesling vines block in Marlborough - 35 year old vines. Mountain stream minerality, citrus, vague stone fruit and honey. The palate is pristine and very focused with a focus on mineral and citric flavours.



Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Vineyard Road, Martinborough, 2010 - Loads of fresh guava and nectarine aromas, honey, snap peas, gooseberry and sweet herbs. The palate has a lovely creamy weight with a long mouth-watering finish.
$25 On

(right: the ultimate picnic basket on the patio at Terroir)

Craggy Range Pinot Noir Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough, 2009 - luscious raspberry, violets, sweet spices and cedar aromas. A feminine and silky style with bright cherry and berry fruit. with a suggestion of tobacco and savoury undertones. Chic.

Craggy Range Pinot Noir Calvert Vineyard, Bannockburn Central Otago, 2009 - earthy,
quite meaty - typical Bannockburn black
cherry aromas, pristine mineral aromas
and a hint of herbs. The palate is laden with sweet, supple fruit, the texture is silky, fine but firm cocoa flavoured tannins linger.

Craggy Range Syrah Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke's Bay 2009
Rich black raspberry and peppery aromas, violets, and stony minerality. The palate follows suit wit stony minerality, pepper and blackberries supported by fine, firm tannins. Concentrated, almost brooding.

Craggy Range 'Te Kahu' Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke's Bay, 2009 - Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec make up this concentrated red. On the nose, fragrant raspberry, blueberry and cassis, spiced, macerated plums and mocha liqueur with hints of bananas and earthy/mineral notes. Fantastic structure and balance, this wine is both approachable and elegant with polished tannins. Nicely woven and supple.
$30 ON

Craggy Range 'Sophia' Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke's Bay, 2008 - Predominantly Merlot with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon and a pinch of both Malbec and Cabernet Franc, the Sophia presents black cherry and plum, chocolate, vanilla, a hint of banana and dark floral notes with a core of earth and tobacco. Supple and mouth-filling but elegant, rich chocolate and berry flavours are rounded out by exotic spice. Lovely structure and long, sweet polished tannins.

Craggy Range 'Le Sol' Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke's Bay, 2008 - fetching an impressive $100 New Zealand dollars, this brooding Syrah offers aromas of black fruit, pepper and earth highlighted by some sweet bright red berry notes. The palate is broad and quite chewy with fine, firm tannins.
A wine that has many years in it yet.


Ager Sectus/Crossroads Winery


Sauvignon Blanc in the Ager Sectus Kereru Road Vineyard

Ager Sectus is not just one, but several vineyards spread across Marlborough and Hawkes Bay. Under the Ager Sectus  Wine Estate umbrella they produce wines under the labels of: Crossroads. The Crossings, Braided River, Curious Cove, 3Stones and Southbank Estate.
Established just over a decade ago, in 2000, Ager Sectus now holds over 360 hectares of land and two wineries in Hawke's Bay and Marlborough.

Hawke's Bay winemaker Miles Dinneen (right) grew up on a nearby farm and used to ride a horse to school, things have changes a lot since then and a lot of vines have been planted in Hawke's Bay.
Dinneen's grandfather arrived in the mid-1800s, like so many European immigrants, during the gold rush on the South Island. After making some money in
Central Otago, he purchased land here on the
North Island, the dairy, sheep and deer farm where
Miles he grew up.
Dinneen took me on a tour of the broad terraces of the Ager Sectus Kereru Road vineyard, which slopes gently toward the Ngaruroro River. I  tasted the sweet and ripe Sauvignon Blanc berries, which were only days away from harvest, before visiting to the Crossroads Winery near Fernhill.

The wines

Crossroads Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 - aromas of stone fruits, jalapeno, citrus and passion fruit with typical sweaty Sauvignon Blanc undertones. Fresh on the entry, the palate has a nice creamy weight with lemon, passion fruit, capsicum and lime zest flavours, the finish lively.
$14 BC

Crossroads Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke's Bay, 2010 - Snappy aromas, stone fruit and spring blossoms with citrus and some herbal notes. The palate is bright, a rounded and creamy texture. This wine has focus and offers notable structure. The finish is impressively long and powerful.
approx. $17 BC

Crossroads Kereru Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, 2010 - Attractive stonefruit aromas highlighted by caramel and spice notes. Appealing ripe fruit on the palate, very nice oak integration and balance. Mid-palate spice grabs hold and lingers across the finish. 
approx $19 BC
 

Crossroads Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2008 -  Juicy
raspberry and cherry , cocoa and saddle leather
aromas with earthy undertones. The palate offers similar, juicy approachable red berry flavours with fine spice and cedary hints. More on the delicate side, a smooth and fresh style.
approx $20


Crossroads Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, 2009 - Loads of pepper with a supporting cast of briary berries - raspberry, blackberry and floral aromas with stony mineral notes. The plate has impressive power, it is full and peppery with plenty of fruit. Smooth and lengthy.
approx $35


Crossroads Cabernet Franc 'Mere Road Vineyard,
Gimblett Gravels, 2009 - attractive blackberry and
black current aromas, crush dark flowers, cocoa
and spicebox notes. The palate is fresh and lovely - nice glycerol texture, supple fruit, licorice and spice flavours. Impressive concentration - truly delicious.
approx $35

Crossroads Vineyard Selection 'Talisman', Hawke's Bay, 2009 - made from a proprietary secret blend of red grapes this premium wine is still very youthful. Black cherry, black berry, cocoa, espresso aromas lead to a tightly wound but concentrated palate. It is a mouth-filling wine, the fruit is sweet and the tannins still grippy when I tasted it in March 2011. The 2008 version which I also tasted was more savoury - leather, roasted herbs and spiced, meaty aromas lashed to purple fruit. The tannins here still youthful and grippy but it was more giving on the palate. A wine to put in your cellar.
approx $45.



Sacred Hill
Looking out over the Tutaekuri River from Sacred Hill's Rifleman's Vineyard in Hawke's Bay

When I began my tour of Hawke's Bay, many paragraphs earlier at Elephant Hill, I mentioned that some places stick with me long after I have returned home and still stand out over the years. At Elephant Hill I was astounded by the architecture and design, here at my final visit with Sacred Hill, I was no less so. This time though, I was standing in the Rifleman's Vineyard, one of the most beautiful vineyards I have ever visited.

With assistance from their father, Sacred Hill was established in 1986 by brothers Mark and David Mason. Winemaker Tony Bish joined the Mason family to produce their first vintages and although he left to work at Rippon in Central Otago and Brown Brothers in Australia, Bish returned to Sacred Hill in 1994 and the award winning winemaker remains there today.

(right: white cliffs of the Tutaekuri River)

Sacred Hill harvest their grapes from their original,
nearby Dartmoor Vineyard, from Gimblett Gravels
Deerstalker's Vineyard, from leased vineyards in
 Puketapu and vineyards in Marlborough and Central Otago. The wines are made under several labels including their ultra-premium Halo label.
Bish led me through a tasting in Sacred Hill's stunning 25 hectare Rifleman's Vineyard, home to their famous namesake Chardonnay. The Rifleman's is a well concealed parcel of land, which looks out over the dramatic white cliffs of the Tutaekuri River. This vineyard is special not only for it's views but for its special porous sand and paupa rock with red metal soils. The twenty year-old Chardonnay vines here are dry farmed.

(right: Simon Swa & Tony Bish in the Rifleman's vineyard)

The wines

Sacred Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2009 - Export Director Simon Swa explained that this wine is geared toward the North American market. Plenty of tropical fruit with subtler mineral, nettle and grassy aromas. The palate is nicely woven, it has a lovely weight and bright  and balanced but not assertive acidity. The 2010 follows suit, but with softer grapefruit citrus and tropical fruit aromas.
approx $20 BC, AB, NS, Que

Sacred Hill 'Sauvage' Hawkes Bay, 2007 - Expect creamy aromas here - quince and beeswax, leesy notes and vibrant citrus. Beautiful complexity in the mouth, layers of fruit, lanoline, citrus - lengthy and elegant. Wild yeast fermented with 8 months in barrel.
approx $40 BC, AB

Sacred Hill Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay - Fresh aromas, clean fruit rounded out with hints of caramel and warm spices. Very attractive - a silky weight with balanced sweet butter and spice with orchard fruits, lively acidity keeps the palate bright.
approx $20 BC, AB

Sacred Hill 'Rifleman's Vineyard' Chardonnay, 2009 - Bosc pears, quince, praline and honeycomb aromas. The palate is smooth and chic, lovely weight, mouth-watering acidity and layers of stone fruit, spice and praline linger. A gorgeous wine, elegant and lengthy.
approx $40 BC, AB, ON

Sacred Hill Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2009 - Some of the grapes for this wine came from Central Otago. Spicy but juicy fruit - mixed berry and black cherry with earthier forest floor undertones. The palate is similarly juicy, berries, cocoa, fine spice and tobacco. Long and silky.
approx $20 BC, AB/$30 NS

Sacred Hill 'Prospector' Pinot Noir, Bannockburn Central Otago, 2009 - Typical Central Otago, expect pristine fruit bound by power. Black cherries and fine spice aromas, the pristine fruit continues on the palate - raspberry and black cherries with fine but firm cocoa tannins.
approx. $40 BC, AB

Sacred Hill 'Brokenstone' Merlot, Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay 2007 - Gorgeous, intense aromas of black currents, black cherries, violets and chocolate. Concentrated but quite lifted palate, ripe fruit and earthy layers. Finely knit and  generous with a long smooth finish.
approx $40 BC, AB

Sacred Hill 'Deerstalkers' Syrah, Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay, 2007 - Very aromatic - violets, plush purple berries and cherry notes, coffee, pepper, banana, peppery spice and stony mineral tones. A n elegant and silky palate offers sweet fruit flavours with savoury undertones. Fantastic.
$45 Que/2006 approx $40 BC, AB


Sacred Hill wines in the Rifleman's Vineyard, Hawke's Bay



An Intro to New Zealand read here
South Island
Marlborough - the Savviest Place on Earth read here
Wairapa/Canterbury - Christchurch's wine region read here

North Island
Wairarapa (Martinborough) - a little known gem read here
Auckland & Waiheke Island  - where history is made read here                               

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