NEW ZEALAND
Auckland & Waiheke Island
North Island
posted August 2011                                                                                          sister site to WineDiva.ca
by Daenna Van Mulligen


I began week three, the last leg of my New Zealand adventure, in Auckland. It was a sunny Sunday and I had some free time to wander through Auckland's downtown and waterfront to shop and discover the city, which felt was a bit like my own home of Vancouver.
It was also a perfect night to grab a bottle of Champagne Deutz's Marlborough Brut, head back to the Hilton far out on the tip of Princess Wharf and simply order room service.

Monday morning I hit the road to visit some of the well-known wineries around Auckland.
 

Auckland and region
The soils are primarily comprised
of volcanic greywacke and mixed
alluvial matter. The climate here is
warm with somewhat high rainfall
and humidity. Here Chardonnay,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are grown.
The industry here owes much to the Croatian immigrants who arrived with their viticulture knowledge and began planting vines in the 1800s. Later generations of Croatians are still fully entrenched in this wine producing region, as you will read below.
 

Kumeu River


Heading to the northwest of Auckland my first stop was at Kumeu River to meet Paul Brajkovich whose father Mate established it in 1944.
Paul is one of Maté and Melba Brajkovich's four children (Michael, Milan, Marijana and Paul), and all work at Kumeu River.  Paul, who is the marketing director, took me on a tour of the small winery before Michael, Kumeu's winemaker, joined us to taste their wines.

(right: Paul & Michael Brajkovich)

Paul explained that his
grandparents Mick and Katé arrived
in New Zealand from Croatia with
their three children, Maté being one
of those three.  After saving some
money, the family was able to
purchase a vineyard in the
Kumeu region in 1944.
While Paul's grandfather passed away soon after purchasing the vineyard, his father Maté and his grandmother Katé continued to work the San Marino vineyard, making and selling wine.
Maté met his wife Melba in the late 1950s and their four children were born during the 1960s.
Kumeu River (the name was changed to Kumeu River in the md-80s) has developed a solid reputation as the producer of some of New Zealand's best Chardonnays.
I can truthfully say, that the Kumeu River Chardonnays are some of the best I have ever tasted - world wide.



The Wines             
                                                     (above the beautiful Lyre trained vines at Kumeu River)

Kumeu River Village Chardonnay, 2008 read review here

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, 2008 - the oak is slightly more prevalent than on the Village Chardonnay but still completely in balance. Aromas of praline and mixed sweet and savoury spices, mineral and honeycomb. Smooth and attractively weighted on the palate and dominated by flavours of citrus and fine spice. Bright acidity, nice balance.
about $30


Kumeu River Estate Pinot Gris, 2009 - pristine pear and exotic citrus notes, a hint of peach and saline. The palate follows suit - fresh, smooth and entirely quaffable. Nice weight and a smooth finish.



Single Vineyard Chardonnays
Kumeu River Coddington Chardonnay, 2008 - A step up from the estate wines, the Coddington vineyard provides richer fruit on the nose, plenty of lemony notes with spice and smoke. The palate is rounded, creamy and elegant, finely toasted oak is layered with citrus and stone fruit flavours. Time will assist in integration, but no doubt this wine will age well.
The finish is long and bright.


Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay, 2008 I love this wine and its feminine notes of honey blossoms, beeswax and praline, mineral citrus and fine talc. It has a gorgeous, slightly oily texture, it is both lush and lively delivering citrus, mineral and spice. It has finesse and length - truly fantastic!
The Hunting Hill vineyard is higher than the others, slightly cooler and more affected by  western breezes.


Kumeu River Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 compared to the other single vineyard Chardonnays, the Maté  offers quite different aromas, fragrant pear and orchard fruits, sweet vanilla and honey. The palate is supple and smooth with good concentration and a long honeyed finish. Planted before Maté passed away, this two decade old vineyard is the only one still planted with the Mendoza clone, popular throughout New Zealand.
Ageable - you bet the 2002 I tasted was wonderful.
approx $45


Babich


This year, Babich wines celebrates 95 years.
Like many Croatian immigrants who arrived in northern New Zealand to harvest kauri gum (fossilized resin from forests of native kauri trees), so did Josip Babich.
Josip arrived in New Zealand in 1910 at age 14 and planted his first vineyard in 1912. In 1919 Josip and his brothers moved to previously purchased 29 hectare piece of land in a forested region, which is now part of West Auckland. Josip lived to see the first Babich wines exported to Europe, and after his passing at age 87, Babich continued to grow in quantities produced and
international exports.

Today, Babich is one of New Zealand's largest family owned wineries, which is now being run by second and a third generation Babich, Joe's nephew David.
Joe Babich (top right) met me on the morning I arrived, like the Brajkovich men I had met earlier at Kumeu River, Joe is an very tall man. He explained that he took over winemaking in the early 1960s and works with his sister Maureen and his brother (the Chairman of the company) Peter. He is proud to note that Babich is the oldest family owned winery in the region and they make wines from Gisborne, Marlborough, Hawke's Bay and Auckland that are exported to 35 countries worldwide.

(right: On the Babich property which was a very rural forested piece of land in 1919 now looks across at the expanded West Auckland)

The Wines

Babich Pinot Gris, 2009 - fresh and lively aromas of pear, peach and honey blossoms. The palate follows suit with a lovely weight, good concentration and a smooth, slightly spiced finish.

Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 - snappy citrus, gooseberry and passion fruit with capsicum and a hint of tangerine. Clean and fresh in the mouth with vibrant but not aggressive acidity and a slightly creamy texture.
$19 BC

Babich 'Black Label' Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 - creamier and richer on the nose than the green label Sauvignon Blanc with a vibrant and fresh palate. Peach and guava is lashed with flavours of
citrus peel and lees. Lively but with additional complexity.


Babich 'Headwaters' Organic block Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 - The second ever vintage of this organic single vineyard wine offers pristine talc floral, peach and delicate herbal nuances. The palate is very bright but slightly more restrained - mineral, citrus dominate and leesy flavours linger across the finish. Impressive.


Babich 'East Coast' Pinot Noir, 2008
Aromas of black cherries, mixed spices, cocoa and herbal undertones. The palate is light and fresh with a smooth texture. Approachable style made from grapes from Marlborough and the home Henderson
Valley vineyards in Auckland.
$19 BC


Babich Winemaker's Reserve' Syrah, Hawke's Bay Gimblett Road Vineyard, 2008 - white pepper and black raspberry, sweet spice and leather aromas. On the palate, peppery spices are layered with plum, dark berry and cocoa flavours. Dark and savoury with fine ripe tannins clinging to the finish.


Babich 'Winemaker's Reserve' Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2008 - Deep, dark berry/cherry fruit, violets, chocolate, baking spice and leather with forest floor undertones. Expect a lovely weight in the mouth with bright acidity and impressive concentration. Smooth and juicy with a spicy finish.


Babich Reserve Port - made from Pinotage.
Sweet, smooth and rich with dried fruit, leather, sour cherries and some spice. Rich in the mouth as well with a long toffee flavoured finish and some firm tannins.

Villa Maria




One of New Zealand's most recognized wineries (and her most awarded) Villa Maria is a work of love by second-generation Croatian immigrant George Fistonich.
(right :Sir George Fistonich with winemaker David Roper)

Established by Fistonich in 1961, the company expanded quickly in the 1970s and continued to grow solidly  throughout the 1980s, 90s and into the new millennium.
Villa Maria was the first winery in New Zealand to open a vineyard bar and restaurant in 1979 and was one of the first to see potential in the Gimblett Gravels region of Hawke's Bay (read here).
Fistonich received a knighthood in 2009, the first
ever recognizing a contribution to the
New Zealand wine industry, which is why you will
usually see him referred to as Sir George Fistonich.
Villa Maria makes wines from vineyards planted in Auckland, Hawke's Bay, Gisborne and Marlborough and the wines are made in two wineries, one located near Blenheim in Marlborough (read about Marlborough here) and the one I visited in Auckland.
Sprawling lawns, Gewurztraminer vines, a Pukeko and duck inhabited pond and a elegant vineyard cafe and patio greet you when you arrive at the Auckland winery. It is a perfect location for weddings, private events and the concerts that are arranged each summer. Sadly, I missed the Crowded House concert  held on the winery grounds the day I arrived in New Zealand three weeks prior.
Auckland winemaker David Roper (read about my 2010 meeting with senior Marlborough winemaker Jeremy McKenzie here) led me through an extensive tasting with me before we were joined by Sir George Fistonich.
When you meet Fistonich, you could be forgiven to think he is a member of the second generation Villa Maria, family - he is very fit and certainly does not look old
enough to have started a winery 50 years ago.
He also has an endearing character, a soft voice
and ready smile and he loves to talk about all wine, not just his.

The Wines

The Villa Maria tiers:
Private Bin - offers classic varietal expression has a white label/red capsule - fresh, approachable and ready to drink entry level wines
Gold label - Cellar Selection wines made just like the Reserve tier but with less intensity
Black Label - Reserve wines blends of each regions outstanding vineyards, expressions of excellence.
Single Vineyard - very limited quantities from the best vineyards show vineyard specific characters.

Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling, Marlborough, 2010 - Fragrant peach and mixed stone fruit aromas,
honey and spring blossoms.
Juicy but sweet ripe fruit on
the palate, snappy citrus and a long mouth-watering
finish. So quaffable, great value!
$15-$20 across Canada

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 2010 - Fantastic, lively aromas - gooseberry, passion fruit, guava and capsicum. Pristine palate, fresh and verdant and again with the expected  mouth-watering finish.
$15-$20 across Canada

Villa Maria Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Clifford Bay Marlborough, 2010 - Elderflower and flint, fleur de sel and jalapeno with fresh grass clippings. Similar grassy flavours, citrus and passion fruit pop on the palate with lively but not aggressive acidity.
$30-$35 BC/ON

Villa Maria East Coast Pinot Gris, 2010 - Fragrant pear and stone fruit aromas, with hney and exotic citrus. The palate is ripe and nicely rounded with mixed orchard fruit and star anise flavours.
Lengthy finish with faint spice and citrus peel.
$15-$16.50 AB/ON

Villa Maria Private Bin Gewurztraminer, 2010 -
Rose oil, lychee, cold cream and exotic spices
and citrus notes. The palate has a fantastic, oily weight with perfectly balanced sweetness. A mouth-watering and spicy finish. Very tasty.
$15-$21 AB/ON

Villa Maria Private Bin Unoaked Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, 2010 - Fresh and fruity, orchard fruits, citrus and creamed honey aromas are followed by a nicely balanced, clean palate with a long finish and appealing weight.
$16-$20 BC/PQ/ON/NS

Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2010 - Cherries, violets and baking spice aromas translate to an approachable palate with juicy cherry flavours and smooth tannins. I wish this tasty Pinot was
available in BC.
$17-$30 AB/PQ/ON/NB/NS

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2005 - One step up and quite a bit earthier than the Private Bin Pinot offering cherry and ripe berry aromas, cocoa, leather and forest undergrowth notes.
Sweet upfront fruit on the palate with lovely concentration
and a silky texture. Nice finesse still very approachable.
$30-$40 BC/PQ/ON

Villa Maria Pinot Noir Seddon Vineyard Marlborough, 2007 -
from a single vineyard on the southern bank of the
Awatere River in Marlborough this single vineyard Pinot presents raspberry, cherry and red plum with savoury notes, forest floor and a hint of violets. Supple and smooth with very bright acidity, vibrant fruit and flavours of cocoa and espresso lingering on the finish.
Nice concentration and power but still feminine.
$60 ON

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon~Merlot, Hawke's Bay, 2008 - Made with 70% Cabernet and 30% Merlot this Hawke's Bay red offers black fruit, savoury spice, tobacco, leather and herbal notes. There is plenty of fruit in the mouth, impressive intensity and structure and polished tannins. A wine you could cellar for a decade yet.
$42 BC/ON

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Viognier, Hawke's Bay, 2010 - Although not available I loved the Viogniers I tasted in New Zealand and want them to receive
some attention. Lime, ginger, exotic spice, peaches
and honey on the nose. Gorgeous and voluptuous
on the palate, it is powerful and mouth-watering with a spicy linger.

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Syrah Hawke's Bay, 2008 - A lovely wine and a good representation of the quality of Syrah coming from the North Island.
Blackberry, licorice, and baking spice, pepper
and mocha. Concentrated palate, great balance
with a supple weight and smooth tannins.

Waiheke Island

The next day I headed to the ferry terminal right around the corner and boarded an early ferry to Waiheke Island, only 40 minutes from downtown Auckland. Waiheke could be considered a paradise of sorts, small enough to drive around (it is only 20 kilometers across) quite easily, lovely shops, restaurants and amenities, beaches and of course  wineries.
Waiheke Island's vineyards were established in the early 1980's with hopes making premium wines from, varieties less common in New Zealand but more associated with Hawke'sBay. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc were planted first, followed by Syrah, Chardonnay and various other varieties.
Waiheke is a popular resort Island of 8000 inhabitants (which swells to 50,000) perfect for those craving its warm, dry climate. A climate also well suited to the 30+ vineyards and ten wineries located there.
Admittedly, I did publicly proclaim via social media,
that if I could live anywhere other than Vancouver,
it may very well be Waiheke Island.
In one short day, it got into my blood.
My first stop was at Stonyridge...

Stonyridge Vineyard


Vineyards to the right, olive trees left, horses grazing in the distance at Stonyridge on Waiheke Is.

Stonyridge is the vision and the creation of Dr. Stephen White. (at right)
White returned to his home of Auckland in the early 1980s after skippering in the Caribbean and Mediterranean, working in wineries in California and Italy and participating in a Whitbread Round the World Yacht Race. As luck would have it, some of his family was farming on Waiheke Island and White found the perfect home there to plant the Bordeaux varieties he loved the most.
The first vines and olive trees were planted in 1982 with the help of family and friends.

The winery itself is small, very island quaint and unassuming, not what you would expect  the home of the ultra-premium wines produced here to look like. But it is also easy to fall in love with this peaceful
slice of the planet and its open, casual Veranda Café looking out over the organic Stoneyridge home vineyard and distant grazing horses.
Located on a north facing slope and protected from cold southwesterly winds, Stonyridge's soils are clay with magnesium, manganese and iron oxide, a perfect terroir for producing world-renowned wines. The ten hectares here have eight  point five under vine planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, plus olive trees.

White was not only the first in New Zealand to make a four grape blend of the classic Bordeaux varieties, he was the first to make a Rhone-style blend and the first to plant commercial olive trees and a cork forest. The winery is very "old school", everything is done by hand
and the wines are not filtered or fined.

*Watch for more on Stonyridge in the October 2011 issue of Vines Magazine

(right: a fallen angel guards Stoneyridge vines
above right: Veranda Cafe)

The Wines

Fallen Angel (this range of wines are made from grapes from other New Zealand regions)

Fallen Angel Riesling, Marlborough, 2010 - Wonderfully delicious, perfect for quaffing on a patio it offers aromas of lime and marmalade, white blossoms and hint of stone fruit. Tangy and snappy in the mouth
with a kiss of sweetness and a fresh, lively finish.
I would love to see this wine on BC shelves.


Fallen Angel Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, 2007 - Although quite cold when I tasted it, I did get hints of caramel and sweet spices lifted with orchard fruits and citrus. The palate is fresh anad citrusy with more sweet spice flavours and pleasing praline finish.


Stonyridge - all estate Waiheke Island fruit organically farmed.

Stonyridge Faithful, 2009 - This Cabernet dominant red also has 12% Malbec and 4% Cabernet Franc is very fresh on the nose with cassis and floral notes, which lead to a palate of plums, peppery spice, cocoa and coffee flavours. Nice acidity on the palate, a very pleasing and not brutish red.

Stonyridge Airfield, 2009 - Made up of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 13% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Very fragrant nose of blueberry and cassis, some crushed dark flowers and baking spice notes. The palate is smooth and supple, very fresh with impressive structure and polished tannins.

Stonyridge Pilgrim, 2009 - This Syrah dominant blend with 15% Mourvedre, 4% Grenache and 1% Viognier - This Rhone Ranger style blend offers aromas of red berries, saddle leather, and peppery spices. Bright not brooding, a supple weight, fine-boned and lengthy with firm but fine tannin.

Stonyridge Luna Negra, 2009 - Made from hillside planted  Malbec this red is quite savoury and earthy -
spice, leather, smoked meat and spice with plenty of
blackberry. Quite focused, fresh but restrained. The tannins are firm but fine, the finish long.

Stonyridge Larose, 2008 - the flagship Larose is 45% Cabernet with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Bright aromas of cassis and blueberry, leather and graphite, with sweet minty notes to lift it. Lush on the palate yet still firmly wound with impressive structure. The tannins are dry and powdery. A gorgeous red.
Bottle number 12233 tasted

Stonyridge Larose, 2009 - blends 52% Cabernet Sauvignon with 18% Merlot, 15% Malbec, 10 % Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. This newer vintage offers a mix of red and black currents, fine spice,
leather, espresso and cocoa. It is a mouth-filling
wine with a solid backbone and firm, mineral focused
palate. Still very youthful - best to cellar it for a few years at least.
Bottle number 138184 tasted

Man O'War


a patchwork of vineyards on the Man O'War estate, high upon Waiheke Island

My last winery visit in New Zealand couldn't have been better.
Breathtaking vineyards, 48 kilometers of the steepest roads and the highest plantings on Waiheke, gives you an inking of what I experienced at  Man O'War. There is wealth behind Man O'War, easily recognized by the 1821 hectare farm estate (part of which rests on nearby Ponui Is.), the 90 individual patchwork vineyards and the effort behind plant ing an additional 150,000 native trees on the property. It is a family owned estate, there are 60 hectares of planted vines, all dry farmed. The soils vary from volcanic loam to iron rich clay.

In 1993 the first vineyard, called Valhalla, was planted to Chardonnay. Now, their best Syrah is planted on the steepest (think Cote Rotie) north facing vineyards and Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Petit Vedot make up 43 other
vineyards across the estate.


Vineyard Manager Matt Allen drove me through the vineyards at angles up to 30 degrees, which I wrongly suspected were to steep for a vehicle to travel. We stopping at the island's highest point where I could get a better sense of Waiheke and it's geography.
It is an stunning place, simply awesome. I suspect those who work in the vineyards at Man O'War think so too.
*Watch for more on Man O'War in the October 2011 issue of Vines Magazine

(right: Matt Allen & Bronwyn Skuse)

The Wines

Flagship Black Label range - all estate dry farmed fruit

Man O'War Gravestone Sauvignon Blanc~Semillon, 2010 - Ten percent Semillon gives the gravestone its citric, lanolin and white chocolate aromas with the typical Savvy notes of capsicum, mineral, tropical fruit and herbs. The palate has a very appealing creamy roundness, not lacking mouth-watering acidity. A long finish with some additional complexity from barrel fermentation.
(right: Man O''War estate olive oil)

Man O'War Valhalla Chardonnay, 2008 - very attractive aromas of smoke and toffee, spice and
citrus, mineral and matchbox. Gorgeous weight -
luscious with sweet ripe stone fruit and marzipan
flavours. Bright, balanced acidity - very elegant but
also quite powerful.


Man O'War Ironclad, 2008 - more than half Merlot with 27% Cabernet Franc, 10.5% Malbec, 9.1% Petit Verdot, 1.4% Cabernet  Sauvignon this Bordeaux-style blend. Lush mixed fruit, plums, raspberry, blueberry and violet aromas with spiced green peppers and mocha. Impressive tannin structure, bold fruit, saline mineral flavours with cocoa lingering on the finish.


Man O'War Exiled Pinot Gris, Ponui Island, 2010 - Richly scented with honey, quince, ginger, exotic
citrus and stone fruits. The palate is decadent and
sweet on the palate with plenty of brisk acidity and a
lengthy finish. 60g/L sugar but very well balanced.


Man O'War Dreadnought Syrah, 2008 - Aromas of black raspberries, licorice and blueberry with baking spices, leather and mocha. Beautiful weight in the mouth - smooth and supple with dark berry fruit, white pepper and mocha with a savoury core. Long finish with silky tannins. Gorgeous.

White label - all estate dry farmed fruit


Man O'War Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 - snappy, vibrant aromas of citrus, gooseberry and grass clippings with jalapeno and mineral notes.
Brisk acidity with passion fruit, guava and peachy flavours.
Juicy with an appealing creaminess on the palate and a long tangy finish.
$23 BC

Man O'War Merlot~Cabernet Franc, 2008 - with the addition of small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon this earthy and spicy red offers aromas of black currents, plums, mocha, herbs and green beans, tobacco and smoked spices. The palate is lush and supple with nice elegance and solid structure. The tannins are smooth.
$29 BC

Read more about New Zealand wine and her wine regions.

22 impressions of New Zealand read here
South Island
Central Otago - the land of Pinot Noir read here
Marlborough - the savviest place on earth read here
Wairapa/Canterbury - Christchurch's wine region read here

North Island
Wairarapa (Martinborough) a little known gem here
Hawkes Bay - bold reds and elegant whites from Hill, Range & Gravels here


                
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