Fall 2009 Vancouver
Best Tastings
 

Fall is busy in this city we call Vanhattan.
Part of that reason is that it's the perfect time for wine producers and vintners from the Southern Hemisphere to visit as they are just coming out of their winter season and vines are still in the early stages of budding.
But it's not just those from down below the equator who left an impression on my palate...

Read accounts and wine reviews of visits from Chile's Vina Errazuriz, Australia's Peter Lehmann, Rodney Strong & Davis Bynum from Sonoma,  Ehlers Estate - Napa, and more great drops from a Côtes du Rhône tasting and Terralsole from Tuscany below...

Vina Errazuriz


Don Maximiano Estate and the iconic Sena Vineyard in Aconcagua Valley Chile at sunset

Edgard Carter, who is a winemaker at Chile's historic Vina Errazuriz popped into town on a blustery October day on the last leg of his Canadian tour. I had visited Vina Errazuriz less than a year before and had the opportunity to travel high above the iconic and biodynamic Sena Vineyard in Edgards beat-up white truck, just in time to see the sun set.
(Read about Vina Errazuriz and the Aconcagua Valley here)

Best drops

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay,  Aconcagua Chile, 2007 uses wild yeasts to add complexity to this fantastic Chardonnay. On the nose, expect loads of citrus, warm apple pie, toast and spice. The palate pops with sweet tropical fruit, it has lovely complexity and loads of zippy citric flavours, the finish is long and spicy.
$21.99 +545392

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2006 is a glorious example of Casablanca's cooler climate capabilities. Fragrant floral and warm raspberry aromas, compost-y, forest floor and savoury undertones. The palate is juicy, it has plenty of berry fruit, sweet spice and leather with a long, elegant finish.
$23.00

Max Reserva Shiraz, 2006 read review on WineScores.ca here

Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Aconcagua Valley Chile, 2007 adds 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Syrah to the Cabernet Sauvignon. Gobs of juicy cassis, herbal-minty tones, cocoa and sweet undertones of raspberry and blueberry. The palate is plump with layers of ripe fruit, cedar, spice and leather, tobacco hints linger. A lovely balance of acid, fruit and smooth tannins.

Errazuriz Don Maximiano, Aconcagua Valley Chile, 2006 This is the stunning example of premium world class wine. It doesn't matter where these wine hails from, old world or new, the point is they deserved to be lauded and recognized. The nose is concentrated -sun-warmed berry fruit, balsamic and dried cherries, sweet floral notes and leather with savoury undertones at the core. The palate is opulent, laden with dark fruits, spiced tobacco and chocolate. Structured and still bright with a supple finish.
A blend of 82%Cabernet Sauvignon, 9%Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Syrah

For more about Vina Errazuriz click here
 

20 year Vertical of Peter Lehmann's iconic Stonewell Shiraz

One of my favourite Aussies, Phil Lehmann
(son of the legendary Peter Lehmann), from the Barossa Valley, arrived in town with a 20 year vertical of the iconic Stonewell Shiraz in October. It was enough to have most wine geeks swoon at the chance of an invite.
I visited Peter Lehmann earlier this year (read here) and was impressed with the relationship Lehmann has continued to nurture and support with his grape growers during his many years of winemaking in the Barossa. Despite Peter's retirement and a change of ownership, Peter Lehmann wines continues to be essential Barossa Valley.

Right: Phil Lehmann

The Stonewell Shiraz tasting on October 22 began with the 1987 vintage. This first Stonewell vintage shows its 20year age, but it still has plenty of acidity, red fruits, fleur de sel and cedar. The finish is impressively long.
Chocolate and hazelnuts were the primary aromas in the 1988 followed by earth and tobacco, the texture was thicker  than the 1987 but I found it to be quite astringent.
The 1989 has lovely red fruit and cocoa on the nose. The palate weight really stands out - rounded with a slick texture and plenty of cigarbox, spice and tobacco flavours, the tannins are still present and powdery.
Initially closed, the 1990 came around to show its elegance. Good red fruit, subtle earthy, leathery aromas with some forest floor notes. The palate is still really bright  with hints of dried fruits and fine tannins still linger. The1991 has primary prune aromas and the body is fantastic. Flavours of stewed fruit and spice with balanced acidity/tannins and a long smooth finish.
1992 impressed me with its sweet, bright berry fruit and herbal, eucalypt aromas. The sweet fruit expression reappears on the palate it has lively acidity, supple tannins and a lovely long finish.
The 1993 came across as somewhat dusty, it's earthy with char and fine spice on the nose. The palate follows suit but also pops with sweet, ripe fruit. It has very good structure still. Big, is the note I circled in the margin of my notebook beside the 1994 review. Concentrated black fruit and brooding aromas. The palate says 'yum', bursting with juicy berry fruit, fine spice and tobacco. A full rounded palate and the tannins are still grippy.
Following suit, the 1995 is still a big wine, the aromas show raisins, sweet spices, prunes and leather. Fleshy on the palate, still bright, with lingering tannins.
In my books, 1996 is a standout. It shows its "Shirazness" with dark rich blackberry and blueberry with peppery herbal notes. The palate is voluptuous, an almost glycerol texture with brooding fruit. Lots of complexity and concentration with a granular finish.
The nose on the 1997 made me swoon, violets and sun-baked earth with vibrant purple berry fruits. The palate had gobs of juicy dark berries, spice and leather with a peppery finish and fine tannins. Youthful aromas impress on the 1998, potent blackberry, pepper, chocolate and meaty aromas. The palate is plush with ripe fruit and a powerful finish with firm tannins.
An interesting change from the previous two vintages, the 1999 shows red cherry, cedar chips and spice with blackberry undertones. It has good concentration, leads of spice and cedar, bright acidity and plenty of powerful tannins.
For something completely different the 2000 almost attacks with meaty, bacon fat aromas red berries and then cassis. Fleshy and concentrated with substantial saline on the palate and a long smooth finish. The 2001 blends dark and earthy aromas with fragrant violets and dusty cocoa. Plush and smooth on the palate well formed and integrated with plenty of spice on the finish. The tannins are powdery. Opulent is what I would call 2002. Sweet blackberry and black cherry aromas, eucalyptus and baking spice aromas. The palate is liqueur-like, mint tea leaves and blueberry with sweet spices, generous and powerful with bright acidity and an impressive finish. Fantastic!
2003 show a bit more age than 2002 with dried cherries and chocolate, cloves and vanillin oak, hints of prune and sweet spice. The palate is supple, flavours of chocolate and espresso, black fruits and fleur de sel. A fantastic texture, good power and surprising elegance.
2004 impressed me with its almost delicate restraint. Red currents and sweet berries, crushed flowers and cola spices. The sweet spice comes through on the palate, plush dark fruit and a firm texture. Meanwhile the 2005 is brooding, laden with dark fruit, spice, mint  and concentrated espresso aromas, the tannins are ripe and full. The 2006 is a powerhouse with aromas of chocolate mint patties, blackberry and raspberry, spiced cedar and espresso liqueur. The palate is generous, bittersweet chocolate, licorice, eucalyptus, plums and black fruit with fine spice. The tannins are big but ripe - this one looks great for future Stonewell tastings.

For more about Peter Lehmann click here

Rodney Strong

Rodney Strong wines are a favourite British Columbia. In fact during the recent disastrous economic downturn, Rodney Strong saw little change in their sales here versus the rest of Canada. During September's cross-country Sonoma in the City trade show I was able to taste not only some of the Rodney Strong wines but the new (into our market) Davis Bynum wines. The Russian River winery was purchased by Rodney Strong in the early 2000s and then rebranded. This Sonoma winery is making delicious Chardonnay's and Pinot Noirs at prices that are still palatable. And a round of applause to Rodney Strong, as they turn 50 years old this year they have become the first carbon neutral winery in Sonoma. They have won awards for Green Power and Green Winery and are considered a Fish Friendly Farmer. I hope wineries around the world take note.
Read a recap on my visit to Rodney Strong earlier in 2009 here

Davis Bynum Chardonnay Russian River, Sonoma California, 2007
Launched in BC November 2009 this golden hued Chardonnay has bright citric, creamy pineapple and toasted buts with hints of spiced brown butter. The palate is creamy, spicy, buttery with juicy tropical fruit and lemon peel.
Approx. $30 BC

Davis Bynum Pinot Noir Russian River, Sonoma California, 2007 is also launched in BC November 2009. This is a fantastic Pinot Noir with cherry and carob aromas, forest floor and fine spice. The palate is supple with juicy berry cherry flavours coffee, spice and cigar box flavours lingering. Great smooth texture and vibrant engaging flavours.
Approx $30 BC
For more on Davis Bynum click here

Rodney Strong wines tasted at the Whistler Cornucopia wine event in November.

Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay Russian River, Sonoma, 2007 is harvested and vinified separately then selectively blended after Malo-lactic fermentation takes place. This is a fantastically elegant wine with 12 months on the lees. Intense aromatics, tropical, mineral, vibrant citrus and apple pie with spice. The palate is lush, complex and spiced, creamy yet crisp with lingering cinnamon and spice flavours.
$49.99

Rodney Strong Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River, Sonoma, 2007 This delicious Pinot Noir is made using Burgundian clones and Burgundian yeasts but it has Sonoma written all over it. Juicy cherries, sweet spice and plush sun-warmed berries with mild earthy/forest floor undertones. Fruit dominates the palate with exotic baking spice and vanilla, its supple and legnthy.
$49.99

Rodney Strong Symmetry Meritage, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, 2006 is made with classic the Bordelaise varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It's an opulent wine with rich fruit and notes of prune and dried cherries, chocolate and fruitcake spices with a dash of blueberry. The palate follows suit, it concentrated and supple with ripe dark fruits and molten chocolate.
$79.99

Rodney Strong Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, 2006 has small amounts of Petit Verdot and Malbec added to it. There are only 1500 cases of this sumptuous single vineyard red - expect gobs of blueberry and black current aromas, baking spice and chocolate. The palate is rich, layered with purple fruit, vanilla, cedarbox and exotic spice. Its silky on the tongue with fine tannins lingering.
Approx $99.99

Rodney Strong Brother's Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, 2006 I absolutely swooned for this high-altitude, 100% Cabernet. A focused wine with cassis and typical herbal/ bell pepper aromas with tobacco leaf and minerals. The palate is fresh yet luxuriant. A gorgeous wine with young firm tannins.
Approx $99.99

For more about Rodney Strong click here

Ehlers Estate

Kelly McElearney made the journey from Napa Valley to join wine lovers up on the mountain during Novembers annual Whistler Cornucopia. I was able to sit down with her a few nights later at West restaurant for an outstanding dinner prepared by Executive Chef Warren Geraghty to pair with Ehlers Estate wines.
Ehlers is a historic wine estate in Napa Valley that was established by Bernard Ehlers in 1889. The estate has 39 acres of bio~dynamically farmed vineyards and the wines are all made solely from estate grown fruit. And most impressive of all, 100% of the proceeds from Ehlers Estate go to the Leducq Foundation whose funds research cardiovascular disease. Added to that the wines are stunning.

right at West: Chef Warren Geraghty & Kelly McElearney

Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc, St. Helena Napa Valley, 2008 is a lovely fruit driven Sauvignon Blanc with loads of tropical flavours- passion fruit and citrus with a smooth creamy texture from six months in French oak/ The oak adds to rather than detracts from this wine making it very tasty with an impressive finish. There is very little of this wine made - it is available only at the Estate in California or the 2009 will be arrive in small amounts to BC or AB in the spring.
Approx $43

Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc, St. Helena, Napa Valley, 2006 For those of you who don't usually care for Cabernet Franc, this version will change your mind. Laden with aromas of sweet red berries, molten chocolate, tobacco and earthy/herbal undertones.
Impressively plush with creamy fruit, vanilla, cedar and coffee hints the texture is supple, the finish smooth.
Approx.$76

Ehlers Estate Merlot, St. Helena, Napa Valley, 2006  This Merlot has 17% Cabernet and 2% Malbec blended in. It has plummy and prune-y aromas, leather, tobacco and secondary aromas of chalky earth and savoury with roasted herbs. Expect fantastic acidity and flavours of vanilla and sweet spice wrapped in a plush texture.
Approx $73

Ehlers Estate One Twenty Over Eighty, St. Helena, Napa Valley, 2006
This lengthily named wine (120/80 is the perfect blood pressure reading) is a Meritage blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot. It has plenty of Minerality, choco~mocha, plums and spice. Velvety fruit and vanilla on the palate with baking spices, a powdery texture and fine, grippy tannins lingering on the finish.


Ehlers Estate 1886 Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa Valley, 2005 Named for the Ehlers Estate's year of inception this premium blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Cabernet Franc is housed in a unique apothocary bottle with a gorgeous pewter label. It has a mix of cassis, blueberry and purple plums, rich spice, mint tea and espresso aromas. The palate is concentrated and wonderfully focused with cassis, mocha and bittersweet chocolate. Its a juicy wine across the palate and right through to the finish. Some available in BC & AB Approx. $150
The 2006 is leaner, a bit more angular but has typical Cabernet characteristics and plenty of cassis, mineral and mocha on the palate but its still quite closed and will take some cellar time to come loosen up. The 2007 has fantastic youthful elegance that bodes well for the future - great structure and plenty of juicy red fruit but well balanced.

For more about Ehlers Estate click here

More great drops...

At a recent lunch and tasting of Côtes du Rhône wines these were the wines that stood out.

E. Guigal Condrieu, 2004 this wine is drinking beautifully right now, unctuous, fantastically rich and oily with quince, mineral, wild honey and savoury mushroom-y forest floor undertones.
A decadent wine that need to be in the cellar of every wine lover.
It's what most Viogniers strive to be.
$60


Domaine de Cabasse Rose Seguret, Côtes du Rhône Villages,
2007 is not only housed in a gorgeous bottle but is a refreshing
and pretty sip. Soft berry aromas with cedarbox, light floral and earthy/spiced undertones. Its fresh and zippy on the palate with vibrant citrus and berry flavours. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Counoise.
$NA


Martinelle Côtes du Ventoux, 2007 is a modernized Côtes du Rhône not for traditionalists but I thought it was delicious. Vibrant purple in colour with overt violets and rich berry aromas, a hint of vanilla and sweet spice with undertones of roasted herbs. The palate is layered and smooth but not over-the-top new world. It maintains old world elegance with a good dose of new world flaunt. Unfiltered and unoaked, made from old vine Grenache,
Syrah, Mourvedre and Carignan.
Approx $27 at Liberty stores

Perrin Vacqueyras 'Les Cristins' 2007 is a delightful go-to wine at a decent price. Primarily Grenache it shows this pretty grapes character in it's obvious floral character, the fruit is almost liqueur-like in is sweetness and density. It's concentrated and elegant with a juicy palate and firm finish.
$26.99

Looking for a great Christmas gift?

Terralsole
I first met the Swiss born Mario Bolag, owner and winemaker of Montalcino's Terralsole, at VinItaly in 2008. It was his stunning labels that stopped me in my tracks as I ambled past thousands upon thousands of producers packed into this massive wine fair. I knew I had seen the labels before and sure enough a few of his wines had made their way into BC through a small wine import agency. It's small producers like Terralsole, whose careful attention to vine care know that wine is made in the vineyard and not in the winery, who stand out.
Unfortunately it's often hard to find these wines. But here's an insiders secret... You can purchase this fantastic Brunello di Montalcino, the 2003 vintage (which is tasting fantastic right now) at a reduced price of $69.99 at BC Liquor Stores.
But get it now, the 2004, when it arrives may only be in private stores and fine restaurants.

Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany Italy, 2003 - Fantastic sweet cherries and leather aromas, cigar box and fine spice with floral notes. It is wonderfully rustic in all the right ways. Bright acidity, juicy red fruit and earthy undertones with fine cocoa and spice lingering on the finish. Elegant enough to serve with white truffles and fine silver and yet simple enough to drink with gourmet pizza on the sofa.
A steal at $69.99 in specialty BCLDB stores and also available in Alberta