Burgundy  - The Wine Lover's Epiphany
part 3 - Côte de Beaune
posted August 2010



Burgundy is a region that confounds many and seduces others. It is a winemaking region that seems to evoke more passion than most and it is also considered the King of Pinot Noir which seems (arguably) to have provided that "epiphany" or "aha" wine moment more than any other single wine or varietal.
Burgundy is a unique region, a historic winemaking area made up of tiny villages and small appellations that begins a couple hours south of Paris (just below Auxerre), in Chablis and runs southward from Dijon to Mâcon, north of Lyon (and the Northern Rhone Valley).

It is a complex puzzle of appellations, sub-appellations and 1200 climats (a specific delimited plot of vineyard that has been recognized for centuries) and clos (a small walled vineyard) - some much more famous than others.

Burgundy is broken into five main wine producing regions crossing four departments - the Yonne, Nivère, Cote d'Or and Saône et Loire.
In the north (separated from the rest of the pack) is Chablis and Grand Auxerrois. Next just south of Dijon is Côte  de Nuits followed in a southerly direction by Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais.

Part 1- Chablis link here
Part 2 - Côte de Nuits link here
 

Côte de Beaune


tasting the Pinot Noirs of the Côte de Beaune in Beaune

The lovely town of Beaune is located in the heart of the 20 or so kilometer stretch of viticultural area known as the Côte de Beaune. Behind the Côte de Beaune to the east  are the Hautes Côtes de Beaune - a plateau that sits about 400 meters above sea level as is claimed by 20 villages.

Here in the town of Beaune you'll find cobblestone streets, world famous restaurants and of course the historic (now a museum) Hospice de Beaune. (right)

Côte de Beaune itself starts just above the town of Ladoix in the north and ends below Santenay in Cheilly~Les~Maranges in the south. Despite being (somewhat) in the shadow of the more well-endowed Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune is home to some of my favorite wines. Besides, the Côte de Beaune is home to (arguably) the most perfect expression of Chardonnay, on the planet.

On the road, heading south...


Standing on the Hill of Corton looking down toward Pernand~Vergelesses - a sign informs
 
To the east of Ladoix~Serrigny in the north is the
Hill of Corton which is surrounded by the villages
of Aloxe~Corton, Savigny~Les~Beaune and Pernand~Vergelesses.
Aloxe~Corton is 120 hectares of primarily Pinot Noir from 13 Premier Cru vineyards. I have a particular affinity to Aloxe~Corton and their full floral, confiture berry and liqueur-like characteristics.
Within Aloxe~Corton is the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton and the opulent, velvety wines from: Le Corton, Les Grèves Les Bressandes, Les Chaumes and Le Clos du Roi, to name a few.

Of course one cannot forget the appellation of Corton~Charlemagne and its fantastic, concentrated Chardonnays layered with mineral, honey, apple pie and praline aromas. This south-west facing vineyard rests at the border of Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.
Farther east, the lesser known Pernand~Vergelesses is also influenced by the Corton Hill; this is a region that is becoming more interesting to lovers of Burgundy wine who desire masculine, fleshy Pinots and lively, crisp Chardonnays that are not overly pricey.

(above right Tollot~Beaut, the producer and the vineyard that was my epiphany Burgundy in the 90s)


above: in the Chateau, right below: gate at Ch. de Pommard, right bottom: Pouring Ch. de Pommard

Moving South, Savigny~Les-Beaune is home to village appellation and 1er Cru vineyards (mostly Pinot but some Chardonnay) and to the east and the village designated appellation of Chorey~Les~Beaune.

If you continue down the N74 road, it will take you right into Beaune. Farther south yet, you will come to Pommard on the east side of N74, where I visited the Château de Pommard to sample a selection of Village and Premier Cru Pinot Noirs. The Château is relatively small and sits in the pretty village of Pommard. The Château is home to an art collection of sculptures and barrel paintings and of course the wines of Château de Pommard.
I have a personal bias about the wines from Pommard, although not all are on par, I find the opulent, elegant and fruity, confiture style irresistible.
And I have no clue as to why there is no Grand Cru designated vineyard here...

Wandering through salons within the Château the
wines that stood out were from:

Domaine du Compte Armand - Pommard 1er Cru 2007/08, Pommard 1er Cru Cru Clos des Epeneaux (monopole vineyard) 2007/08

Château de Pommard 2006/07/08 (right)

Domaine LeJeune Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens Bas 07, Pommard 1er Cru Les Argillières 07/08 and Pommard 1er Cru Les Poutures 07

Fernand et Laurent Pillot Pommard Les Travannes 2007, Pommard Clos de Verger 2007, Pommard 1er Cru Les Charmots 07 and Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 2006/07
 

Domaine Virely~Rougeot Pommard 2007, Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Arvelets 07 and Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins Bas 2007.



Volnay follows Pommard as you continue southward. It is a Village designated appellation with 30 Premier  Crus (or climats) for Pinot Noir, but Volnay also encompasses the 1er Cru climat of Santenots (a commune of Meursault) which also produces Chardonnay .
Reds fall under Volnay or Volnay 1er Cru and the whites are considered Meursault (which is also a village farther south) under Meursault~Santenots or Meursault. Meursault has nearly 400 hectares of  Village and 1er Cru vineyards and only 11 of those are comprised of Pinot Noir.
The Volnay reds are delicate, feminine in style with an obvious spicy character. The Chardonnay's of Meursault feature powerful aromatics, praline, floral, impressive fruit and full-bodies which belie their fantastically balanced acidity.

Halfway between the villages of Volnay and Meursault is Monthelie. Monthelie produces both Village and Premier Cru in both red and white from about 120 hectares of vineyards. The Pinot Noirs here, like Volnay, are considered feminine, featuring small dark berry fruit, and sous-bois notes with a silky texture. Monthalie neighbors about 130 hectares of red and white Village and 1er Cru vineyards of Auxey~Duresses.

Meursault and the subsequent two villages of Puligny~Montrachet and Chassagne~Montrachet are the pinnacle of white wine production in the Côte de Beaune, all of which are famous for their elegant and long-lived Chardonnays.


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Pugliny~Montrachet, a Village appellation of 206 hectares of Chardonnay (and less than 2ha Pinot Noir), home to 17 Premier Crus and four Grand Crus, produces Chardonnays that reflect chic honeyed praline, baked brioche and mineral bouquets. The wines here are revered world-wide and are considered by many to be the most sublime versions of Chardonnay produced anywhere. The Grand Crus of Pugliny~Montrachet are: Bâtard~Montrachet (shared with Chassagne~Montrachet) Bienvenue Bâtard~Montrachet and Chevalier~Montrachet.


Chassagne~Montrachet, just slightly farther south, contains 19 Premier Crus and 3 Grand Crus: Le Montrachet, Bâtard~Montrachet (shared with Pugliny) and Criots~Bâtard Montrachet.
The wines from here are are mineral driven and
seemingly richer than their counterparts in Pugliny~Montrachet, offering intense minerality, wild flowers, honeysuckle, ripe fruit, fragrant herbs, citrus and toast. But what may surprise many is that Chassagne~Montrachet is home to a significant amount of Pinot Noir, 114 ha in fact (Chardonnay makes up 187 ha) which can produce quite substantial (similar limestone and sandy soils shared with the white), tannic and fleshy reds.
 

Finally, the village of Santenay rests at the base of the great Côte de Beaune. The appellation produces 282 hectares worth of Pinot Noir and 47ha of Chardonnay under designated Village appellation and 11 Premier Crus. The Pinot Noirs here are very attractive - think mixed aromatic                             (no smoking in the caves)
flowers, black cherry and sweet spices while
the Chardonnays are bright and lively.

At an all-day event (during the 10th Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne) called Des Maranges au Montrachet at the Chateau de Chassagne~Montrachet more than 1000 wines from 75 producers, from Santenay, Saint~Aubin, Les Maranges, Puligny~Montrachet Chassagne~Montrachet were offered for tasting. Overwhelming, yes - informative, absolutely.


All wines are offered by the glass at Bernard Loiseau's Louiseau des Vignes in Beaune

 

Read an Intro to Burgundy and part 1- Chablis here
Read about Côte de Nuits - here