Best Tastings Summer 2010
posted: August 2010

What's a tasting without a little lunch? Tasting Falesco wines of Umbria/Latium at Italian Trattoria

It seems there is never a shortage of wine in Vancouver - thankfully, or I wouldn't have a job. Having a great wine culture here in the BC (there is no disputing that we are fortunate to have the broad selection, sold primarily in private stores, of rare varieties and small producers) means we get to see a lot of wine folk from around the world.
Tastings are a perfect way to meet a principal from a far off winery and taste their wines in either a public or private situation. Although I am unable to attend all tastings and unable to meet all wine visitors I do what I can. Here are the top tastings from the Summer of 2010!


Gunderloch
I was very fortunate to have visited Gunderloch in the Rheinhessen village of Nackenheim, Germany in the summer 2008 (read about it here). And, as a true Riesling groupie, I was in my glory then just as I was when I heard the Hasselbach's of Gunderloch were making another trip to Vancouver
Now in its fifth generation (with a recent addition of the sixth generation) this family owned winery was founded in 1890 when Carl Gunderloch purchased hillside vineyards along a portion of the Rhein River - the most significant being in the Rothenberg ("Red Hill"), just outside of Nackenheim. The Rothenberg Nackenheim is 50 hectares in total and is a site revered for its mineral-rich red soil and premium, steep slopes. Five generations later, the family still lives in Nackenheim and farm Rothenberg vineyards along with others in the Rheinhessen region.
Recently, winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and his wife (the head of the Gunderloch winery) Agnes were in Vancouver and we sat down at Au Petit Chavignol for a fantastic pairing of cheese and Riesling (what could be better?).

Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger & Fritz Hasselbach

The Wines

Fritz's Riesling, 2009 read the review here

Gunderloch Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinett, Rheinhessen, 2009 I love this wine for its layers of stone fruits, honey and mineral notes with just a hint of almonds. It is pristine in the mouth with a kiss of sweetness an a long crisp, racy finish. Great paired with creamy, truffled cheese.
$22-$30+ across Canada

Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Spatlese, 2009 has luscious apricot, honey and straw or chamomile flower notes with iron minerality. The palate is a step up from the kabinett - richer, thicker and sweeter but balanced with crisp acidity. Flavours of apricots, citrus, honey and petrol with a mineral core. A gorgeous wine from 34 yr old vines.
$43-$52 across Canada

Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Auslese, 2009 Again a step up from the Spatlese with apricot jam, ripe apple, citrus and honey, chamomile and slate minerality on the nose. The palate is sweeter yet and that
sweetness holds on tight but is balanced with lovely acidity.
$60-$71+ across Canada

Gunderloch Rothenberg Goldkapsel Riesling Auslese, 2009 A unique blend of aromas - herbs and white pepper, plenty of minerality and citrus with musky, wild honey notes. It is sweet and silky on the palate - weighted and plush liquid gold layered with honey, caramel apples and apricot compote. Nice with blue cheese or try with apple tart tartin or apricot cake.
$65+ BC 375ml



For more on Gunderloch link here

Maison Brotte
I visited the Rhône Valley in the spring of 2010 and although I know the wines of Maison Brotte, they were not on my travel itinerary. So I was more than happy to meet Laurent Brotte for lunch on a sunny afternoon in July at the perfectly suitable Provence Marinaside.
Laurent (right) is a third generation member of the Brotte company based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone Valley France. In 1931 Laurent's grandfather, Charles Brotte created the company. Brotte is both a negotiant (one who buys grapes or wine from others, bottles and sells it under their own label) and estate wine producer. Like many negotiants in France, Brotte tries to achieve as much control over the grapes/juice they are purchasing as possible,  for a negotiant that can mean: maintaining the vineyards themselves, supervising the vineyards to their greatest ability or rigid tastings of the best grapes/juice from each separate vineyard they purchase from.
Maison Brotte has relationships with established producers like Versant Doré in Condrieu in the Northern Rhône and in the Southern Rhône Domaine Bouvencourt (in Vacqueyras) and Domaine de la Grivelière (Lirac and Côtes du Rhône).
Maison Brotte estates consist of those in: Château de Bord Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun, Domaine Grosset in Cairanne and Domaine de l'Aube as well as Domaine de Barville in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Wines
Les Brottiers Côtes du Rhône, 2007 link here to read the review

Pere Anselme La Fiole du Pape, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, NV previous review here

Pere Anselme La Fiole du Pape,Châteauneuf-du-Pape, NV was created in 1952 as a collaboration. It is meant to represent the somewhat twisted stocky shape of a Rhône grape vine and inside is a blend of three different vintages in order to maintain consistency and blending with an older vintage gives each new release some built-in maturity. A blend of Grenache (predominant red variety in the south), Syrah and Mourvedre. It has firm dark fruit and lots of spicy pepper notes with hints of cedarbox and powdery tannins.
$45


Domaine Grosset Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2006 I really love this wine, one half Grenache lends it the pretty floral and sweet berry notes, 25% Syrah adds spice and structure and 25% Mourvedre adds firmness and tannin. This wine is very pleasing though - sweet sunwarmed berries and violets with a juicy but rounded, full palate. Supple and fresh with a soft finish.
$25+

Bouvencourt Vacqueyras AOC, 2006 this wine brings back memories of the wines I fell in love with in Vacqueyras when I was there several months ago - sweet ripe berry fruit, floral perfume, herbs, pepper and licorice. Firm structure, smooth spiced tannins, yet lovely, sweet and feminine!
$29+

Domaine Barville Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, 2004 - A combination of sun heated berries and dried fruits, herbs, mocha and mixed spices. It is big, still firm tannins and has a tightly wound - youthful palate. Perfect for your cellar.
$45+

For more on Maison Brotte - link here

Falesco
Italian wines never fail to intrigue me. The thousands of varieties scattered across regions, provinces, communes and DOCs can be exhausting understand and confusing to study but they are never, ever boring...

Falesco is a young winery that was created in 1979 by Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella on the border of Umbria and Lazio, in the town of Montefiascone.
The brothers are still full partners but while Riccardo (who consults for many Italian and Bordeaux producers) looks after the operations at their Falesco  winery with his daughter Dominga, Renzo is the director of operations for Marchesi Antinori.
These wines are solid, extremely well made and incorporate rare traditional varieties with more classic noble varieties.
And if you are going to drink Italian wines, what better to pair them with but rustic Italian food. I sat down at Glowbal Group's Italian Trattoria on west 4th Avenue and tasted the Falesco wines with a fantastic assortment of antipasti and pasta.
Sadly many of the Falesco wines are not yet available in Canada.

The Wines

Est! Est! Est! di Montefiascone, Lazio Italy, 2009 Legend says that the name Est! Est! Est! refers to a story about King Henry V who was traveling to Rome in the 10th century on his way to be crowned by the Pope. His traveling companion was a man who loved good food and wine and therfore sent his servant ahead of the group to find the best wines along their route. The servant was to write EST! (a secret code) upon the doors of all of the best places to stop along the way. And, when he arrived in Montefiascone he was so enamoud of the fresh white wines he wrote Est! Est! Est! on the inn's door.
It's no surprise, this wine is slightly frizzante, it is fruity and floral with undertones of talc and minerality. Light and very pleasing, I could drink this wine all day.
It is made of 50% Trebbiano, 30% Malvasia and 20% of the local indigenous grape Roscetto.
NYA

Falesco Ferentano, Lazio Italy, 2008 Made from 100% of the local indigenous Roscetto this wine sees a bit of oak contact - 4 months in medium+ toasted barriques. there seems to be plenty of caramel and oak spice with undertones of tropical fruits and minerality as it warms. It is quite full and round with balanced acidity. I like this wine but would prefer to see less oak contact.
$24 in Quebec

Falesco Montiano, Lazio Italy, 2006 Made from 100% Merlot, this is Falesco's most important wine. It has rich, ripe aromas - berries and plums with plenty of chocolate and soft spice. It is supple and generous with a lengthy finish.

Falesco Marciliano, Umbria, 2006 is Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Cabernet Franc. It is a plush
wine, supple and full with loads of sweet sun-warmed berries, a hint of fresh herbs and chocolate with silky tannins. A wonderful wine!

Falesco Vitiano, Umbria Italy, 2007 This Umbria rosso is a blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese. It is a fantastic food wine, especially with foods in tomato sauces. Mixed fruit, dark and red - cherries, plums and berries, sunbaked earth and dark cocoa. It is juicy and fresh with a supple texture and a uniquely Italian rusticity.
$19+

Falesco Pesano Umbria Merlot, Italy, 2007 This very approachable 100% Merlot has cherries, chocolate, ripe plums and rich dark earth with pleasing spice that pairs well with foods with spice. Great acidity makes it perfect for a variety of pastas and tomato sauces as well as meat dishes. Again, a simple yet complex wine, different from your average Merlot
in a uniquely Italian way.
$26

More on Falesco here

Marotti Campi

Before I met Lorenzo Marotti Campi (right)
in for the first time, in Vancouver in 2009, I had already, unknowingly tasted the result of his grapes. On a visit to Italy - a trip comprised of visits to Umbria, Abruzzo, Marche and Tuscany in 2008 - a stop in Le Marche had me raving about a wine made from a rare grape (classic to Marche) which I had tasted, called Lacrima. Although bottled under another producers name, it was made from Marotti Campi's grapes.
Marotti Campi is a family owned winery located in the village of Morro d'Alba north of Ancona. Marotti Campi has a strong focus on the traditional grapes of the region like Verdicchio and Lacrima from the DOC's of Lacrima di Morro d'Alba and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Lacrima di Morro d'Alba has been a DOC since 1985 - at that time there were only 7 hectares left of this ancient variety. Marotti Campi now has 23 hectares alone (the largest producer of this variety). The name Lacrima or tear could be derived from from the shape of both the cluster or the grape which form a similar tear-like form.
Verdicchio on the other hand is named for it's colour, green or verde. Even when fully ripe these grapes never lose their "green" hue. It also has great potential to age. Lorenzo explained that his Verdicchio vineyards in Castelli di Jesi produce oily, fuller bodied wines while his Matelica vineyards produce wines that are more fragrant.
He returned this summer for a tasting of his current and older vintages at Cork & Fin in Gastown.

The Wines

Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2008 Rich and minerally with loads of zesty citrus, honey and creamy fruit with almond notes. Great acidity, rounded and weighty with a long crisp finish.
$20
To read my online review of the 2008 click here

Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2007 This was a great year for Verdicchio, it shows too in the thick, oily aromas, honey straw and floral notes with peaches and almond oil. The palate is slick and weighty, silky texture and white pepper and citrus peel lingers on the finish.
To read my online review of the 2007 click here

Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2002 This was a challenging vintage but the result with age shows a lovely wine with sweet floral notes and obvious honey with melon and herbal notes. Fantastic acidity on the palate.

Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2000 I thought this wine truly showed the fantastic age-ability of Verdicchio - it reminded me of an aged Hunter Valley Semillon. Rich honey and lanoline aromas, wildflowers and sage. The palate was rich and oily with mineral/saline, citrus peel and again creamy honey leading to a long mouth-watering finish.

Marotti Campi 'Origiolo' Lacrima di Morro D'Alba Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2007 Typical to this generously aromatic varietal - purple fruit, violets and rose petals, pepper and juniper with a mocha finish. Plush and seductive.
To read my previous online review of the 2007 click here

Marotti Campi 'Origiolo' Lacrima di Morro D'Alba Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2006 Sweet plump purple berries and similar violets, rose petals, Mocha and pepper. A hint more rusticity in this vintage and fine dusty tannins on the finish.
To read my previous online review of the 2006 click here

Marotti Campi 'Origiolo' Lacrima di Morro D'Alba Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2003 a very hot, dry year in Italy and it shows in the wine with aromas of sunbaked earth and fine spice. Less floral and less obvious pretty fruit here. Again slightly rustic and earthy on the palate.

Marotti Campi 'Origiolo' Lacrima di Morro D'Alba Superiore DOC, Marche, Italy, 2000
This was a moderately good growing season and the 2000 still has some life - pretty floral notes, camphor and black fruit. It seems very different from other vintages, with age playing some part in that - there are slight vegetal notes in the mouth, it's earthy, less concentrated and has a powdery texture.

For more on Marotti Campi click here

Wines from Victoria, Australia

K+AR is a Vancouver-based importer of a selection of fantastic wines from the southwestern-most, cool-climate winemaking regions of Victoria. These are wines that need to be tasted in order to understand (and appreciate) the true diversity of Australia's winemaking capabilities. Whether you love: luscious, fruity and supple Shirazes from Barossa and McLaren Vale or the mineral focused Cabernets from Coonawarra, the long-lived and generous Semillons of the Hunter, crisp sparklings from Tasmania, bracing Rieslings from Eden Valley or pristine Chardonnays from Tumbarumba, you will appreciate the elegance of the Victorian wines - Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, Pinot Gris', Shirazes and even Cabernets.


Lethbridge Dr. Nadison Riesling, Geelong Victoria, 2009 Really fantastic - zingy lemon drops, spring blossoms and mineral notes. The palate has just a kiss of sweetness but its is pristine and vibrant with an impressively long finish.
$40

Lethbridge Pinot Gris, Geelong Victoria, 2009 A clean nose with, white fruit,  light floral, citrus and mineral aromas. The palate is juicy with nice concentration, balance and elegance.
$39+

Camelback Pinot Grigio, Sunbury Victoria, 2009 (right) You'll notice the bit of plastic floating in the bottle in this shot to the right. This is a new wine preservation product called the Wine Shield that K+AR's Andrew Rowe has brought into Canada
more here .
This tasty Pinot Grigio is very aromatic - compelling jasmine, pineapple and star anise with snappy acidity
and a rounded creamy texture.
The finish is long, spicy and quite powerful.
$28+

Camelback Sangiovese~Shiraz, Heathcote Victoria, 2008
Made from 79% Sangiovese and 21% Shiraz this delicious red blend smells of candied cherries, hints of blueberry jam and dark flowers. The texture is fine, silky and finessed. It has lovely lifted acidity and a long cedary, spiced finish.
$29+

Camelback Shiraz "Block Two", Heathcote Victoria, 2007 this vibrant Shiraz is co-fermented with 2% Viognier and presents fresh, overt aromas of juicy dark berries, chocolate and sweet cola spices and
mocha. When you smell this wine, you will want to
drink it - and you will be rewarded with a firm robust palate with loads of spice and chocolate and a firm finish.
$35+

Ocean Eight "Verve" Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, 2008 - "Verve" is right - plenty of soft, pretty floral aromas, fine spice and nutty hints on the nose. The palate is elegant - spiced citrus with mouth-watering acidity and an impressively lengthy finish.
$48+

Ocean Eight Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, 2008 - light ruby in colour with very appealing raspberry and blueberry confiture notes, rose petal and sweet spices. The vibrancy and aromatics translate to the palate - juicy berries, sweet spice with hints of coffee, spice and tobacco.
$54+

Sandhurst Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Bendigo Victoria, 2004 this is a really fantastic Cabernet with just a bit of age. The nose remains extremely fresh with ripe, rich cassis, mint/eucalypt and chocolate aromas. It is an elegant mouthful of wine with smooth ripe fruit and lovely intensity.
$44+
 

For more on K+AR and their portfolio - click here

Villa Maria


Tasting a lineup of Villa Maria Private Bin wines at Oru in Vancouver



I have been a fan of the Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc (and especially) the Riesling for several years. The wines have a pristine character without falling short on fruit and texture and always seem to hit the spot.  And oddly enough New Zealand is one of the few, rare places I have never visited in my vinous travels. So I was more than happy to be able to join Marlborough Senior Winemaker Jeremy McKenzie (right) at Oru in the new Fairmont Pacific to taste the Villa Maria wines.It was Jeremy's first visit to Vancouver and he was thrilled with how homey it was. The natural beauty of Vancouver wows most, but  he thought it had many similarities to his home in New Zealand.

Villa Maria was founded in 1961 by Sir George Fistonich who remains Managing Director of this family owned estate. Leading the trend of screwcaps, Villa Maria became the first major winery in the world to make the shift away from
corks and every bottle, since 2001, has been
cork-free. A sustainable company for many years, Villa Maria has recently been certified organic in every aspect, from vineyard through to shipping (which includes: hybrid staff vehicles, natural lighting, recycling...).
Villa Maria actually has two estates, one in Marlborough and one in Auckland. In the northerly Auckland; Chardonnay, Verdehlo and Gewurztraminer is planted. In Marlborough, where Jeremy works the winery crushes mostly their award winning Sauvignon Blanc as well as Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

The Wines

Villa Maria Estate Private Bin Riesling, 2008 This is a snappy wine - peaches, lemondrops and lime peel
with a layer of fragrant orange blossom.
The palate is zesty with just a kiss of sweetness
to balance. It has a lovely texture and
lip-smacking acidity on the finish.
$17

Villa Maria Estate Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 Gorgeous aromas of nettle and gooseberry, white nectarine, mineral citrus and elderberry stems. It has fantastic acidity, very fresh and slightly creamy with a fruitcup of flavours - peaches, pears and nectarines and a long tart passionfruit finish.
$19

Villa Maria Estate Private Bin Pinot Noir, 2008 This very tasty (and easy drinking) Pinot Noir has right ruby red in colour with smoked cherries, exotic spice (notably star anise) and hints of forest floor. The palate is juicy and bright with no bitterness or astringency.
$23.45



For more on Villa Maria click here

Finca Decero

I wrote about Decero in: An Introduction to Argentina in April 2010 on WineScores link here .
Finca Decero was my first stop in Mendoza, after about 18 hours of travel from Vancouver in late 2009. It is a beautiful winery with a portfolio of structured, powerful and compelling reds.
Located in Agrelo (some say the best Malbecs come from Agrelo), a part of Rio Mendoza South, this new winery (located on the highest elevations in Agrelo) is making a mark with their single vineyard wines. The first vines were planted in 2000 (planting continued) and the winery was completed in 2006. DeCero's famous Remolinos vineyard (named for the mini whirlwinds that are found here), produces grapes for some of Argentina's most famous wineries.
As winemaker Marcos Fernandez (right) told me during a recent visit to Vancouver, the Remolinos vineyard sits at 1050 m or 3500 ft and is home to the Bordelaise varieties; including Malbec that he blends or uses in his single variety, single vineyard reds.


The Remolinos Vineyard Wines

Decero Malbec, 2008 this rich purple Malbec smells of sweet berries, chocolate and crushed floral aromas with layers of rich, thick coffee and earthy notes. It is supple and fine grained on the palate with lovely weight and a ling spicy finish.
$26

Decero Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 has sweet, intense aromas of small black berries, vanilla and dark flowers with an earthy core. The palate is velvety cocoa, cassis and plums with spiced vanilla. It is extracted and rich with cigarbox flavours lingering on the finish.
$26+

Decero Mini Ediciones Petit Verdot, 2006 Luscious colour and aromas - ripe purple fruit (think blueberries) with crushed flowers and mocha. The palate is sweet, supple yet juicy with firm fruit and balanced acidity.
Warm spice lingers on the finish.
Very good! - especially paired with morels
in cream sauce!
The 2007 is intense as well, mineral, spice, purple fruits and espresso on the nose is followed by a supple mouth with a slightly granular texture. Lots of great acidity but no doubt it is a firm wine with a long, smooth finish.
$45

Decero Amano, 2007 is a blend of 60% Malbec with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Tannat from the Remolinos Vineyard. Aromas of ripe purple berries and sweet violets with hints of mineral and salinity. The palate is complex and well balanced with concentrated fruit, cocoa and spice flavours the tannins are firm but smooth. Worthy as a cellar keeper.
$70


For more on Decero link here

More to come from:

Gunderloch, Germany